Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
No views create such lasting impressions as those which are seen but for a
moment, when a veil of mist is rent in twain, and a single spire or dome
is disclosed. The peaks which are seen at these moments are not, perhaps,
the greatest or the noblest, but the recollection of them outlives the
memory of any panoramic view, because the picture, photographed by the
eye, has time to dry, instead of being blurred, while yet wet, by contact
with other impressions. The reverse is the case with the bird’s-eye
panoramic views from the great peaks, which sometimes embrace a hundred
miles in nearly every direction. The eye is confounded by the crowd of
details, and is unable to distinguish the relative importance of the
objects which are seen. It is almost as difficult to form a just estimate
(with the eye) of the respective heights of a number of peaks from a very
high summit, as it is from the bottom of a valley. I think that the
grandest and the most satisfactory standpoints for viewing mountain
scenery are those which are sufficiently elevated to give a feeling of
depth, as well as of height, which are lofty enough to exhibit wide and
varied views, but not so high as to sink everything to the level of the
spectator. The view from the Grand Tournalin is a favourable example of
this class of panoramic views.
We descended from the summit by the northern route, and found it tolerably
stiff clambering as far as the Col. Thence, down the glacier, the way was
straightforward, and we joined the route taken on the ascent at the foot
of the ridge leading towards the east. In the evening we returned to
Breil.
There is an abrupt rise in the valley about two miles to the north of the
village of Val Tournanche, and just above this step the torrent has eaten
its way into its bed and formed an extraordinary chasm, which has long
been known by the name Gouffre des Busserailles. We lingered about this
spot to listen to the thunder of the concealed water, and to watch its
tumultuous boiling as it issued from the gloomy cleft, but our efforts to
peer into the mysteries of the place were baffled. In November 1865, the
intrepid Carrel induced two trusty comrades—the Maquignaz’s of Val
Tournanche—to lower him by a rope into the chasm and over the cataract.
The feat required iron nerves, and muscles and sinews of no ordinary kind;
and its performance alone stamps Carrel as a man of dauntless courage. One
of the Maquignaz’s subsequently descended in the same way, and these two
men were so astonished at what they saw, that they forthwith set to work
with hammer and chisel to make a way into this romantic gulf. In a few
days they constructed a rough but convenient plank gallery into the centre
of the _gouffre_, along its walls; and, on payment of a toll of half a
franc, any one can now enter the Gouffre des Busserailles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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