Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
Preparation for what we intended to attempt was not to be made without
some thought, or at all events I do not find such preparation a
perfectly simple matter. It requires exact calculation. The first thing
is to make a list—in this case a list of all we should require at Camp
IV, with the approximate weights of each article. But not every article
would be available to be carried up on the first of the two journeys to
the North Col; for instance, we must keep our sleeping-bags for use at
Camp III until we moved up ourselves. It was necessary, therefore, to
mark off certain things to be left for the second journey, and to
ascertain that not more than half of the whole was so reserved. It might
be supposed that the problem could now be solved by adding up the
weights, dividing the total by ten (the number of our porters), and
giving so many pounds, according to this arithmetical answer, to each
man for the first journey. In practice this cannot be done, and we have
to allow for the fallibility of human lists. However carefully you have
gone over in your mind and provided for every contingency, you may be
quite sure you have omitted something, probably some property of the
porters regarded by them as necessary to salvation, and at the last
moment it will turn up. The danger is that one or two men will be
seriously overloaded, and perhaps without your knowing it. To circumvent
it, allowance must be made in your calculations. On this occasion we
took good care to carry up more than half of what was shown on our list
on the first journey. Another difficulty in the mathematical solution is
the nature of the loads. They cannot be all exactly equal, because they
are composed of indivisible objects. A tent cannot be treated like a
vulgar fraction. The best plan, therefore, is to fix a maximum. We
intended our loads to be from 25 to 30 lb. They were all weighed with a
spring balance, and the upper limit was only exceeded by a pound or two
in two cases, to the best of my remembrance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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