Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
In recollection, the strange land of Tibet stretches itself out before
me in an endless succession of vast, dreary plains, broken by chains of
mountains that, in relation to the height of their surroundings, sink
into the insignificance of hills. Arid and stony desert wastes, almost
totally unblessed by the living green of vegetation; interminable tracts
of sand that shift unceasingly under the restless feet of an
ever-hurrying, pitilessly cruel wind; bleak, barren, and unbeautiful of
form, but fair and of indescribable appeal in the raiment of soft
glowing rainbow hues with which distance, as in compensation, clothes
all wide open spaces. Sunsets provided many a wondrous picture, while
towards the South a glistening array of white-capped excrescences marked
the main chain of the Himalaya. The honour of being the most poignant of
my memories of Tibet, however, remains with the wind. It blew
unceasingly, and its icy blasts invariably met one straight in the face.
The pre-monsoon wind is westerly; the post-monsoon wind blows from the
East. Our journey towards the Base Camp led us towards the West;
homeward bound, during the monsoon, we travelled East. Both going and
returning, therefore, we marched in the teeth of a wind, that gnawed
even at our weather-beaten, hardened skins, and was the most generous
contributor in the quota of discomforts that Tibet meted out to us.
And what of the dwellers in these inhospitable plains? Like all
humankind, the Tibetans have their bad as well as their good points. The
former are easily told. If one wishes to converse with a Tibetan, it is
always advisable to stand on his windward side. A noble Tibetan once
boasted that during his lifetime he had had two baths—one on the
occasion of his birth, the other on the day of his marriage. Those of us
honoured by his presence found the statement difficult to believe. Apart
from this rather penetrating drawback, the Tibetans are a most likeable
people; cheery, contented, good-natured, and hard-working; slow to give
a promise, but punctilious to a degree in carrying it out; truthful and
scrupulously honest. As testimony of this last-mentioned trait, be it
said that during the whole of our long wanderings through Tibet, when it
was quite impossible to keep a strong guard over our many stores, we
never lost so much as a single ration biscuit through theft. Old age is
seldom met with; it is exceptional to see a Tibetan whose years number
more than fifty-five or sixty. Presumably living in so severe a climate,
at an altitude of 14,000 feet or more above sea-level, proves too great
a strain upon the human heart. The priests, or “Lamas,” as they are
called in Tibet, constitute the governing class. They represent the
educated section of the community; the monasteries are the seats of
learning, and, as such, are well-nigh all-powerful. I regret to state
that I did not like the priests as much as the laity. The reason is not
far to seek.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account