Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
But we carried on, making the best of our predicament until, at one
o’clock, the wind dropped suddenly from a blustering gale to nothing
more than a stiff breeze. Now was the opportunity for retreat to the
safety of the North Col camp. But I wanted to hang on and try our climb
on the following day. Very cautiously and tentatively I broached my wish
to Bruce, fearful lest the trying experience of the last twenty-four
hours had undermined his keenness for further adventure. Once again
might I have spared myself all anxiety. He jumped at the idea, and when
our new plans were communicated to Tejbir, the only effect upon him was
to broaden his already expansive grin.
It was a merry little party that gathered round to a scanty evening meal
cooked with the last of our fuel. The meal was meagre for the simple
reason that we had catered for only one day’s short rations, and we were
now very much on starvation diet. We had hardly settled down for another
night when, about 6 p.m., voices were heard outside. Our unexpected
visitors were porters who, anxious as to our safety, had left the North
Col that afternoon when the storm subsided. With them they brought
thermos flasks of hot beef-tea and tea provided by the thoughtful Noel.
Having accepted these most gratefully, we sent the porters back without
loss of time.
[Illustration:
OXYGEN APPARATUS.
]
[Illustration:
CAPTAIN NOEL KINEMATOGRAPHING THE ASCENT OF MOUNT EVEREST FROM THE
CHANG LA.
]
That night began critically. We were exhausted by our previous
experiences and through lack of sufficient food. Tejbir’s grin had lost
some of its expanse. On the face of Geoffrey Bruce, courageously
cheerful as ever, was a strained, drawn expression that I did not like.
Provoked, perhaps, by my labours outside the tent, a dead, numbing cold
was creeping up my limbs—a thing I had only once before felt and to the
seriousness of which I was fully alive. Something had to be done. Like
an inspiration came the thought of trying the effect of oxygen. We
hauled an apparatus and cylinders into the tent, and, giving it the air
of a joke, we took doses all round. Tejbir took his medicine
reluctantly, but with relief I saw his face brighten up. The effect on
Bruce was visible in his rapid change of expression. A few minutes after
the first deep breath, I felt the tingling sensation of returning life
and warmth to my limbs. We connected up the apparatus in such a way that
we could breathe a small quantity of oxygen throughout the night. The
result was marvellous. We slept well and warmly. Whenever the tube
delivering the gas fell out of Bruce’s mouth as he slept, I could see
him stir uneasily in the uric, greenish light of the moon as it filtered
through the canvas. Then half unconsciously replacing the tube, he would
fall once more into a peaceful slumber. There is little doubt that it
was the use of oxygen which saved our lives during this second night in
our high camp.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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