Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
Our attack upon Mount Everest had failed. The great mountain with its
formidable array of defensive weapons had won; but if the body had
suffered, the spirit was still whole. Reaching a point whence we
obtained our last close view of the great unconquered Goddess Mother of
the Snows, Geoffrey Bruce bade his somewhat irreverent adieux with “Just
you wait, old thing, you’ll be for it soon!”—words that still are
expressive of my own sentiments.
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CHAPTER VIII
CONCLUSIONS
Geoffrey Bruce and I arrived back at the Base Camp early in the
afternoon of May 29. The next few days were spent in resting, and I then
underwent the same experience as the members of the first climbing
party; that is, instead of recovering my strength rapidly during the
first three or four days, if anything a further decline took place.
However, as the weather appeared fine, and there seemed promise of a
bright spell prior to the breaking of the monsoon, it was decided to
make another attempt on the mountain. Of the remaining climbing members
of the Expedition, Somervell was undoubtedly the fittest, with Mallory a
good second. Both had enjoyed some ten days’ rest since their first
assault upon Mount Everest, and therefore had a chance of recovering
from the abnormal strain to which they had been submitted. Medical
opinion as to my condition after so brief a rest was somewhat divided,
but in the end I was passed as sufficiently fit to join in the third
attempt. On the 3rd of June we left the Base Camp. The party consisted
of Wakefield as M.O., Crawford, and later Morris, as transport officers,
Mallory, Somervell and myself as climbers. The attempt was to be made
with oxygen, and I was placed in command. It required a great effort for
me to get as far as Camp I, and I realised there that the few days’ rest
which I had enjoyed at the Base Camp had been quite insufficient to
allow of my recuperation. During the night the weather turned with a
vengeance and it snowed heavily, and I knew that there could be no
object in my proceeding farther. After giving Somervell final detailed
instructions regarding the oxygen apparatus, I wished them all the best
of luck, and on the 4th returned to the Base Camp. As Strutt, Longstaff,
and Morshead were leaving next day for Darjeeling, I was given, and
availed myself of, the opportunity of accompanying them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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