Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
Thus, although we had climbed in vertical height
only some 300 feet higher than the first party, nevertheless we were
more than twice as close to the summit than they had been when they
turned back.
To summarise the two performances. The first party established a camp at
an altitude of 25,000 feet, occupied it for one night, and finally
reaching a point 26,985 feet in height, and 1⅛ miles from the summit,
returned without a break to the North Col. The second party established
a camp at an altitude of 25,500 feet, occupied it for two nights and
almost two days, and eventually reaching a point of 27,300 feet high and
less than half a mile from the summit, returned without a break to Camp
III. The weather conditions throughout were incomparably worse than
those experienced by the first party. The difference between the two
performances cannot be ascribed to superior climbing powers on the part
of the second party, for the simple reason that all the members of the
first party were skilled and proven mountaineers, while Geoffrey Bruce
and Lance-Corporal Tejbir, though at home in the hills, had never before
set foot on a snow and ice mountain. No matter how strong and willing
and gallant an inexperienced climber may be, his lack of mountaineering
skill and knowledge inevitably results in that prodigality of
effort—much of it needless—which invariably and quickly places him at a
grave disadvantage when compared with the trained mountaineer. The
strength of a climbing party is no greater than that of its weakest
member. Judged on this basis the second party was very weak compared
with the first, and the superior results obtained by the former can only
be ascribed to the fact that they made use of an artificial supply of
oxygen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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