Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
My arms were free; my legs were near the surface. After a brief
struggle, I was standing again, surprised and breathless, in the
motionless snow. But the rope was tight at my waist; the porter tied on
next me, I supposed, must be deeply buried. To my further surprise, he
quickly emerged, unharmed as myself. Somervell and Crawford too, though
they had been above me by the rope’s length, were now quite close, and
soon extricated themselves. We subsequently made out that their
experiences had been very similar to mine. But where were the rest?
Looking down over the foam of snow, we saw one group of porters some
little distance, perhaps 150 feet, below us. Presumably the others must
be buried somewhere between us and them, and though no sign of these
missing men appeared, we at once prepared to find and dig them out. The
porters we saw still stood their ground instead of coming up to help. We
soon made out that they were the party who had been immediately behind
us, and they were pointing below them. They had travelled further than
us in the avalanche, presumably because they were nearer the centre,
where it was moving more rapidly. The other two parties, one of four and
one of five men roped together, must have been carried even further. We
could still hope that they were safe. But as we hurried down we soon saw
that beneath the place where the four porters were standing was a
formidable drop; it was only too plain that the missing men had been
swept over it. We had no difficulty in finding a way round this
obstacle; in a very short time we were standing under its shadow. The
ice-cliff was from 40 to 60 feet high in different places; the crevasse
at its foot was more or less filled up with avalanche snow. Our fears
were soon confirmed. One man was quickly uncovered and found to be still
breathing; before long we were certain that he would live. Another whom
we dug out near him had been killed by the fall. He and his party
appeared to have struck the hard lower lip of the crevasse, and were
lying under the snow on or near the edge of it. The four porters who had
escaped soon pulled themselves together after the first shock of the
accident, and now worked here with Crawford and did everything they
could to extricate the other bodies, while Somervell and I went down
into the crevasse. A loop of rope which we pulled up convinced us that
the other party must be here. It was slow work loosening the snow with
the pick or adze of an ice-axe and shovelling it with the hands. But we
were able to follow the rope to the bodies. One was dug up lifeless;
another was found upside down, and when we uncovered his face Somervell
thought he was still breathing. We had the greatest difficulty in
extricating this man, so tightly was the snow packed about his limbs;
his load, four oxygen cylinders on a steel frame, had to be cut from his
back, and eventually he was dragged out. Though buried for about forty
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