Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
But how exactly is this to be done? It is to this question that one
would wish to deduce an answer from the experience of 1922. It is very
unlikely that any future party will find itself in the position to carry
out any ideal plan of organisation. Ideally, they ought to start by
considering what previous performances might help or hinder the aim of
bringing the party of attack in the fittest possible condition to the
last camp. What ought they to have done or not to have done, having
regard to acclimatisation? It is still impossible to lay down the law on
this head. After the first Expedition, I supposed that the limit of
acclimatisation must be somewhere about 21,000 feet. It now seems
probable that it is higher. One of the physiologists who has been most
deeply concerned with this problem of acclimatisation considers that it
would probably be desirable, from the physiological point of view, to
stay four or five days at 25,000 feet before proceeding to attempt the
two last stages on consecutive days. Those of us who slept at Camp V for
the first attempt would certainly be agreed in our attitude towards this
counsel. The desire to continue the advance and spend another night at a
higher elevation, if it persisted at all for so long a time at 25,000
feet, would be chilled to tepidity, and the increasing desire to get
away from Camp V might lead to retreat instead of advance. The
conditions must be altogether more comfortable if the climbers are to
derive any advantage from their rustication at this altitude. It would
not be impossible, perhaps, if every effort were concentrated on this
end, to make a happy home where the aspiring mountaineers might pass a
long week-end in enjoyment of the simplest life at 25,000 feet; it would
not be practicable, having regard to other ends to be served by the
system of transport. But it might be well to spend a similar period for
acclimatisation 2,000 feet lower on the Chang La. There a very
comfortable camp, with perfect shelter from the prevailing wind and good
snow to lie on, can easily be established. Noel actually spent three
successive nights there in 1922, and apparently was the better rather
than the worse for the experience.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account