Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
Since the problem of climbing Mount Everest presented itself
physiologically, it was only natural in us on the Expedition continually
to be watching acclimatisation. We watched it in connection with the
whole idea of being trained for the event. Probably each of us had a
different notion as to how he should be trained, and some thought more
about training than others. On this point I must confess a weakness when
I foresee an event in which my physical strength and condition are to
count for so much; I am one of those who think more about training. I
consider how I may add a cubit to my stature and all the time I am half
aware that I might spare myself the trouble of such futile meditations.
Experience seems only to show that, provided I habitually eat well and
sleep well and take a moderate amount of exercise, I can do nothing to
improve my endurance on a mountain. Probably some men may do more to
this end. The week we spent in Darjeeling sufficed for all of us to
brace ourselves after the enervating effects of our journey from
England. Norton, who had come out rather earlier and prepared himself in
the most strenuous fashion for the immense exertions of the Khadir Cup,
was already finely trained—too well, I thought, for so lean a man. He
and Geoffrey Bruce, my companion in the first party, together with
General Bruce, Longstaff, and Noel, elected to walk a great deal in
Sikkim, and so I believe did Somervell, Wakefield, and Morshead in the
second party. The General, very frankly expressing the probable
advantage to his figure of profuse perspiration in those warm valleys,
also walked a great deal. For an exactly contrary reason—I hate the
inconvenience that must arise on the march from wet clothes—I walked
less than any of these; probably Longstaff and I rode more than the rest
up to Phari Dzong. But when I heard how wonderfully fit were the two
most energetic walkers of our party, and learned from Geoffrey Bruce of
Norton’s amazing pace uphill, I could not refrain from testing my own
condition on the first occasion that we approached a comparatively high
altitude: coming up to Gnatong, where the bungalow is situated above
12,000 feet, I walked for all I was worth, and was well satisfied. Next
day I felt far from well with indigestion and headache. General Bruce
and Longstaff were also unwell, and it was a cheerless afternoon and
evening in the two little rooms at Kupup, with hailstorms outside and
too little light within. Norton and Bruce elected to sleep on the
verandah, and these two, with me, if I were fit enough, intended
starting early next morning so as to climb a small mountain, diverging
thus from our path over the Jelep La (14,500 feet) for the sake of the
view. We set off not much later than we had intended; but it was now
Norton’s turn to be unwell, and he was properly mountain-sick 1,000 feet
below the pass. However, we were not inclined to pay much attention to
these little troubles; with a day’s rest at a lower elevation (9,000
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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