Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
The day after crossing the Tinki La, we had a short march to Gyangkar
Nangpa, and, coming across the flat basin, had full in view before us
Sangkar Ri, a prominent rock peak, the most northerly of a remarkable
range above the left bank of the Arun River. The desire to vary the
routine of the daily march by climbing a mountain had already stirred a
number of suggestions among us, and now the opportunity seemed to offer
itself; we were further incited by the prospect of a splendid view of
Mount Everest if we could reach this summit, which lay not so very far
out of our way. No doubt unconscious motives, too, promoted our attempt
on Sangkar Ri. The pleasures of mountaineering must always be restricted
for those who grapple with the highest mountains, if not denied _in
toto_; but the ascent of a little rock peak of 20,000 feet might help to
keep alive in us some appreciation of mountaineering as an enjoyable
pursuit. And then we wanted confidence in ourselves. At present we could
only feel how unequal we were to the prodigious task in front of us; so
were we urged to try conclusions with Sangkar Ri, to put ourselves to
the test.
The project demanded a high camp, at 17,000 feet, nearly 4,000 feet
above Gyangkar Nangpa. Seeing that it would clearly be undesirable to
employ more than a very small number of porters to carry up tents and
sleeping-bags for the night, Somervell and I at first made a plan for
ourselves alone; but when it was found that two others wanted to come
with us, this plan was amplified to include them, and it was arranged
that the four of us should sleep at close quarters in a Whymper tent.
The porters who carried for us in the evening would take down their
burdens in the early morning, in time to get them loaded on to the
animals at Gyangkar without delaying the main body. The establishment of
our camp did not proceed without some little difficulty; one of the
porters gave out and had to be relieved of his load, and it was not
until we had contoured a hillside for an hour in the dark that we found
a suitable place. So soon as we had lain down in our tent, a bitter wind
sprang up and blew in at the door; the night was one of the coldest I
remember.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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