Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
The situation of Camp III when we reached it early in the afternoon was
not calculated to encourage me, though I suppose it might be found
congenial by hardier men. We had turned the corner of the North Peak so
that the steep slopes of its Eastern arm rose above us to North and
West. Our tents were to be pitched on the stones that have rolled down
these slopes on to the glacier, and just out of range of a stone fall
from the rocks immediately above us. A shallow trough divided us from
the main plateau of the glacier, and up this trough the wind was
blowing; since the higher current was hurrying the clouds from the
normal direction, North-west, we might presume that this local variation
was habitual. But wind we could hardly expect to escape from one
direction or another. A more important consideration, perhaps, for a
mountain camp is the duration of sunshine. Here we should have the sun
early, for to the East we looked across a wide snowy basin to the
comparatively low mountains round about the Lhakpa La; but we should
lose it early too, and we observed with dismay on this first afternoon
that our camp was in shadow at 3.15 p.m. The water supply was
conveniently near, running in a trough, and we might expect it to be
unfrozen for several hours each day.
[Illustration:
SERACS, EAST RONGBUK GLACIER, ABOVE CAMP II.
]
Whatever we might think of this place it was undoubtedly the best
available. Very little energy remained among the party, most of whom had
now reached 21,000 feet for the first time in their lives. However, a
number soon set to work levelling the ground which we chose for two
tents. It was necessary to do this work thoroughly, for, unlike the
smooth, flat stones at Camp I, these, like those at Camp II, of which we
had obtained sufficient experience during the previous night, were
extremely sharp and uncomfortable to lie on. After it was done we sent
down the main body of the porters, keeping only one man for cook and
each the man specially attached to him as servant by Geoffrey Bruce’s
command long ago in Darjeeling. With these we proceeded to order our
camp. The tents were pitched, some sort of a cookhouse was constructed
from the wealth of building material, and we also began to put up walls
behind which we could lie in shelter to eat our meals. Perhaps the most
important matter was the instruction of Pou, our cook, in the correct
use of the Primus stove; with the purpose of giving him confidence a
fine fountain of blazing paraffin was arranged and at once extinguished
by opening the safety valve; for the conservation of our fuel supply we
carefully showed him how the absolute alcohol must be used to warm the
burner while paraffin and petrol were to be mixed for combustion.
Fortunately his intelligence rose above those disagreeable agitations
which attend the roaring or the failure to roar of Primus stoves, so
that after these first explanations we had never again to begrime our
hands with paraffin and soot.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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