Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
We lay down at length on the shelf, not yet shaded by the ice-cliff
above it, in a state of considerable exhaustion. Here presumably was the
end of a day’s work satisfactory in the most important respect, for we
felt that the way we had found was good enough, and with the fixed ropes
was suitable for use under almost any conditions. It occurred to us
after a little interval and some light refreshment that one thing yet
remained to be done. The lowest point of the North Col, from which the
North ridge of Everest springs a little way to the South of our shelf,
is perhaps ten minutes’ walk. We ought to go just so far as that in
order to make quite sure of the way onward.
In the direction of the North-east shoulder, now slightly East of South
from us, the shelf slopes gradually upwards, a ramp as it were alongside
the battlements almost attaining the level of the crest itself. In the
whirl of snow and wind on that bitter day of September 1921, Bullock,
Wheeler, and I had found it necessary, in order actually to gain this
level, to take a few steps to the right round the head of a large
crevasse slanting across our line to the North Col. Somervell and I soon
found ourselves confronted by this same crevasse, and prepared to evade
it by the same manœuvre. But during those intervening months the crack
had extended itself some distance to the right and prevented the
possibility of getting round at that end. It was also much too wide to
be leapt. The best chance was in the other direction. Here we were able
to work our way down, before the steep slopes plunge over towards the
head of the East Rongbuk Glacier, to a snow bridge within the crevasse
giving access to a fissure in its opposite wall. We carefully examined
the prospects of an ascent at this point. Our idea was to go up in the
acute angle between two vertical walls of ice. A ladder of footsteps and
finger-holds would have to be constructed in the ice, and even so the
issue would be doubtful. When we set against the severe labour our
present state of weakness and considered the consequences of a step into
the gulf of the crevasse while steps were being cut—how poor a chance
only one man could have of pulling out his companion—it was clear that a
performance of this kind must wait for a stronger party. In any case, we
reckoned, this was not a way which could safely be used by laden
porters. If it must be used we should apply to General Bruce for a
15-foot ladder, more permanent than any we could make in the ice, and no
doubt the mechanical ingenuity so much in evidence at the Base Camp
would devise a ladder both portable and strong. Even this thought failed
to inspire us with perfect confidence, and it seemed rather a long way
to have come from England to Mount Everest, to be stopped by an obstacle
like this.
[Illustration:
PARTY ASCENDING THE CHANG LA.
]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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