Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
In the present instance my first inclination is to write off in this
bold fashion a full half of the time we spent in Camp III. But I will
try to serve my accounts better cooked. The largest item in a balance of
hours, even the least frank, will always be sleep. Here I prefer to make
the entry under the heading Bed. This will enable me to write off at
once a minimum of fourteen or a maximum of sixteen hours, leaving me
only eight to ten hours to account for. It is also a simplification,
because I am able by this means to avoid a doubtful and perhaps an ugly
heading, Dozing. No one will ask me to describe exactly what goes on in
bed. At Camp III it will be understood that supper is always included,
but not breakfast, for as the breakfasting hour is the most agreeable in
the day, it must be spent out-of-doors in the warm sun. Supper, unlike
most activities, takes less time than in civilised life. Wasted minutes
allow the food to cool and the grease to congeal. The porter serving us
would not want to be standing about longer than necessary, and the whole
performance was expeditious. Perhaps the fashion of eating among
mountaineers is also more wolfish than among civilised men. The
remaining 13½ or 14½ hours were not all spent in sleep. Probably on the
night of May 13–14 I slept at least ten hours after the exertions of our
ascent to the North Col. But though one sleeps well and is refreshed by
sleep in a tent at an altitude to which one is sufficiently
acclimatised, the outside world is not so very far away. However well
accustomed to such scenes, one does not easily lose a certain excitement
from the mere presence beyond the open tent-door of the silent power of
frost suspending even the life of the mountains, and of the black ridges
cutting the space of stars. The slow-spinning web of unconscious thought
is nearer consciousness. One wakes in the early morning with the mind
more definitely gathered about a subject, looks out to find the stars
still bright, or dim in the first flush of dawn, and because the
subject, whatever it be, and however nearly connected with the one
absorbing problem, commands less concentrated attention—for the unwilled
effort of the mind is more dispersed—one may often fall asleep once more
and stay in a light intermittent slumber until the bright sun is up and
the tent begins to be warm again. No sleeper, so far as I know on this
second expedition, could compete either for quantity or quality with the
sleep of Guy Bullock on the first; but all, perhaps with different
habits from either his or mine, but at all events all who spent several
nights at this camp or higher, slept well and were refreshed by sleep,
and I hope they were no less grateful than I for those blessed nights.
[Illustration:
PEAK, 23,180 FEET (KELLAS’ DARK ROCK PEAK) FROM THE RONGBUK GLACIER
ABOVE CAMP II.
]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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