The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 20, No. 119, September, 1867: A Magazine of Literature, Science, Art, and PoliticsVarious
General
The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 20, No. 119, September, 1867: A Magazine of Literature, Science, Art, and Politics
Various
American periodicals
It did not take a long time to exhaust the interest of Bassano; but we
were sorry to leave the place, because of the excellence of the inn at
which we tarried. It was called "Il Mondo," and it had everything in it
that heart could wish. Our rooms were miracles of neatness and comfort;
they had the freshness, not the rawness, of recent repair, and they
opened into the dining-hall, where we were served with indescribable
salads and _risotti_. During our sojourn we simply enjoyed the house;
when we were come away we wondered that so much perfection of hotel
could exist in so small a town as Bassano. It is one of the pleasures of
by-way travel in Italy, that you are everywhere introduced in fanciful
character,--that you become fictitious, and play a part as in a novel.
To this inn of "The World" our driver had brought us with a clamor and
rattle proportioned to the fee received from us, and when, in response
to his haughty summons, the _cameriere_, who had been gossiping with the
cook, threw open the kitchen door, and stood out to welcome us in a
broad square of forth-streaming ruddy light, amid the lovely odors of
broiling and roasting, our driver saluted him with, "Receive these
gentle folks, and treat them to your very best. They are worthy of
anything." This at once put us back several centuries, and we never
ceased to be lords and ladies of the period of Don Quixote as long as we
rested in that inn.
It was a bright and breezy Sunday when we left "Il Mondo," and gayly
journeyed toward Treviso, intending to visit Possagno, the birthplace of
Canova, on our way. The road to the latter place passes through a
beautiful country, that gently undulates on either hand, till in the
distance it rises into pleasant hills and green mountain-heights.
Possagno itself lies upon the brink of a declivity, down the side of
which drops terrace after terrace, all planted with vines and figs and
peaches, to a water-course below. The ground on which the village is
built, with its quaint and antiquated stone cottages, slopes gently
northward, and on a little rise upon the left hand of us coming from
Bassano, we saw that stately religious edifice with which Canova has
honored his humble birthplace. It is a copy of the Pantheon, and it
cannot help being beautiful and imposing, but it would be utterly out of
place in any other than an Italian village. Here, however, it consorted
well enough with the lingering qualities of that old pagan civilization
still perceptible in Italy. A sense of that past was so strong with us,
as we ascended the broad stairway leading up the slope from the village
to the level on which the temple stands at the foot of a mountain, that
we might well have fancied we approached an altar devoted to the elder
worship: through the open doorway and between the columns of the portico
we could see the priests moving to and fro, and the voice of their
chanting came out to us like the sound of hymns to some of the deities
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