The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 20, No. 120, October, 1867: A Magazine of Literature, Science, Art, and PoliticsVarious
General
The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 20, No. 120, October, 1867: A Magazine of Literature, Science, Art, and Politics
Various
American periodicals
This region appears to be the head-quarters of political discontent in
Spain,--probably because the people get to be more sensible of the misrule
under which they languish, in proportion as they become more active and
industrious. Nothing could have been more peaceable upon the surface than
the aspect of things; the local newspapers never reported any disturbance,
yet intelligence of trouble in Catalonia was circulating through the rest
of Europe, and _something_--I could not ascertain precisely what it
was--took place during my brief visit. The telegraph-wires were cut, and
some hundreds of soldiers were sent into the country; but the matter was
never mentioned, unless two persons whom I saw whispering together in the
darkest corner of a _café_ were discussing it. I believe, if a battle had
been fought within hearing of the cannon, the Barcelonese would have gone
about the streets with the same placid, unconcerned faces. Whether this was
cunning, phlegm, or the ascendency of solid material interests over the
fiery, impulsive nature of the Spaniard, was not clear to a passing
observer. In either case it was a prudent course.
If, in the darkened streets--or rather lanes--of Barcelona, I saw some
suggestive pictures; if the court-yard of the cathedral, with its fountains
and orange-trees, seemed a thousand miles removed from the trade and
manufacture of the city; if the issuing into sunshine on the mole was like
a blow in the eyes, to which the sapphire bloom of the Mediterranean became
a healing balm; and if the Rambla, towards evening, changed into a shifting
diorama of color and cheerful life,--none of these things inclined me to
remain longer than the preparation for my further journey required. Before
reaching the city, I had caught a glimpse, far up the valley of the
Llobregat, of a high, curiously serrated mountain, and that old book of the
"Wonders of the World," (now, alas! driven from the library of childhood,)
opened its pages and showed its rough woodcuts, in memory, to tell me what
the mountain was. How many times has that wonderful book been the chief
charm of my travels, causing me to forget Sulpicius on the Ægean Sea, Byron
in Italy, and Humboldt in Mexico!
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