The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 20, No. 120, October, 1867: A Magazine of Literature, Science, Art, and PoliticsVarious
General
The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 20, No. 120, October, 1867: A Magazine of Literature, Science, Art, and Politics
Various
American periodicals
The chief topic Mr. Tomes discusses is the manufacture of champagne wines;
but his book is also descriptive of life in Rheims and the adjacent
country, as he knew it during two years' residence in that ancient city.
Indeed, it is only when the reader remembers his former ignorance of
everything concerning champagne, excepting its pop and sparkle and flavor,
that he realizes how thoroughly instructive Mr. Tomes's agreeable pages
are. In them an intelligent sympathy follows the grape through all the
processes of its change to wine;--through the vintage, when it is gathered
by the yeomen of La Champagne, from their own land, and sold to the great
champagne lords of Rheims; through the expression of its juice in presses
obedient to the trained and sensitive touch of hands which give neither
more nor less strength than is adequate to the extraction of the most
delicate flavor; through the season of its first fermentation in casks, and
its second in bottles; through its "marriage" with the kindred juices,
whose united offspring is champagne; through the crisis when it is doctored
with the cordial that bestows a life-long sweetness; through its final
corking and sale in every civilized country. As Mr. Tomes's style is light
and easy, and as he has a quick, unforced sense of humor, his information
is as delightful as it is honest. He counts nothing alien to him that
concerns champagne, and he sketches with a pleasant and graphic touch the
champagne lords and their history, beginning with the great Clicquot
(whose widow, after inheriting him so many years, died only the other day),
and bringing down the list with the Heidsiecks, the Roederers, Moët and
Chandon, the Mumms, and De St. Marceaux, last but not least of the great
champagne houses. As appears from their names, most of these are Germans,
and, according to Mr. Tomes, most of the business of Rheims is conducted by
Germans, who far excel the French in capacity for commerce. They are the
agents and chief clerks even in French houses; it is some German of
enormous physique and iron constitution who is selected as
_commis-voyageur_ to sell the wines and attract custom, by pouring them out
and convivially drinking them wherever he goes. Mr. Tomes's conviction is,
that this commercial traveller leads a difficult and precarious life, for
he cannot eject the wine when once taken into the mouth, as is the custom
of the more fortunate dealers in selling to buyers at the manufactories.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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