1789.—I had yet work to do in France; the survey of that kingdom was
not completed in the journeys of the two preceding years. I did not
hesitate therefore, but as soon as business at home would permit me
to be absent I set out on my third expedition, June 2, and went to
Paris in the diligence. As the carrying specimens of remarkable
soils and of manufactures, wool, &c. was so inconvenient, I made
this journey in a chaise. Through the kindness of the Duchess
d’Estissac (de Rochefoucauld) I was most agreeably received at the
Hôtel de la Rochefoucauld, and as the States General were assembling
I went thither to the Duke’s apartment, where I met many persons of
note, such as the Duke of Orleans, the Abbé Sieyès, Rabaut St.
Étienne,[132] &c. and was present at an interesting debate in the
National Assembly. I spent some time at Paris, which I quitted on my
third journey on June 28. I felt much regret on taking leave of my
excellent friend Monsieur Lazowski, whose anxiety for the fate of
his country[133] made me respect his character as much as I had
reason to love it for the thousand attentions I was in the daily
habit of receiving from him. My kind protectress the Duchess
d’Estissac had the goodness to make me promise that I would again
return to her hospitable hotel when I had finished the journey.
At Toulon I sold my horse and chaise, as I had been informed that I
could not thus travel with safety in Italy. I embarked at Toulon to
save one or two stages, which gave me an opportunity of viewing the
fine harbours of that port. On leaving Nice I went by a _vetturino_
to Turin, and was fortunate in making the acquaintance of some of
the gentlemen that accompanied me. At that capital I was introduced
to various lovers of the plough, and received much valuable
information. From this place I went to Milan, where through the kind
attentions of the Abate[134] Amorette, a true lover of agriculture
and a friend of its professors, I was introduced to a variety of
persons who afforded me much intelligence and accompanied me to the
seat of the Count di Castiglioni, sixteen miles north of the city,
with whom I passed sufficient time to give me an opportunity of
remarking the country life of an Italian nobleman of high
consideration.
From Milan I went to Lodi through one of the finest scenes of
irrigation in the world. At the latter place I assisted in the whole
operation of making a Lodesan, called Parmesan cheese in England,
and thereby learnt a few circumstances in that manufacture, which I
afterwards applied with success in making cheese in Suffolk. At Lodi
I attended the opera, where the Archduke and Archduchess with the
most splendid company were present, and it gave me particular
pleasure to find such a house so filled in a little town quite
dependent on cows, butter and cheese.
At Bergamo I was electrified by the fine eyes of an Italian fair,
and just as I was making a nearer approach, impeded in it by the
sudden appearance of her husband.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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