The Awakening of the East: Siberia—Japan—ChinaLeroy-Beaulieu, Pierre
History
The Awakening of the East: Siberia—Japan—China
Leroy-Beaulieu, Pierre
China; East Asia; Eastern question (Far East); Japan; Siberia (Russia)
Beyond the Tsieng-Men Gate is situated the Beggars’ Bridge, always
thronged by groups of wretches clamouring for alms and ostentatiously
displaying the most appalling mutilations, with all kinds of loathsome
diseases added to their sordid misery to excite compassion. The narrow
side-walks, which are bordered on the one hand by booths, and on the
other by big shops, are filled by a motley gathering of small
shopkeepers, each plying his business in the open-air barbers,
hairdressers, and fortune-tellers, among whom the crowd has no little
difficulty in threading its way. Here you see men in light-blue blouses,
with long pigtails; Chinese ladies with their hair dragged back
magpie-tail fashion, who balance themselves painfully as they go along
on their tiny deformed feet; Tatar women, whose hair is puffed out on
each side of their faces, and who, like their Chinese sisters, stick a
big flower behind their ears. Not being crippled by bound feet, like
their less fortunate Chinese sisters, these women strut along with as
firm a step as their high-heeled clogs will permit. Their faces are
bedaubed with rice-flour, and their cheeks painted an alarmingly bright
red. Children with their heads shaved in the most comical manner, dotted
about with little tufts, that have a very funny appearance, being cut
according to the taste or caprice of their parents, also run about.
Among the well-clad children of a better class are others, stark-naked,
looking for all the world like small animated bronzes, so dark and
warm-coloured is their polished skin. In order to avoid being mobbed,
one has occasionally to seek refuge in a shop, which usually opens on to
the street, and is without windows. In the back the shopkeepers are
peacefully seated behind their counters smoking long pipes, whilst
exhibiting their goods and listening to the bargainings of their
customers. These shops are always very clean, and the goods are arranged
with great order and even considerable taste. A bowl with goldfish, or a
cage full of birds, adds not a little to the charm and peacefulness of
the scene, which is peculiarly refreshing after the noise and dirt of
the streets.
All the great arteries of Peking are equally filthy and closely resemble
each other, excepting that not one of them can equal, either in the size
of the shops or wealth of their contents, the famous High Street that
leads to the Tsieng-Men Gate. In summer, after the rains, a coating of
mud some two feet and a half deep covers both road and footpath, which
when the weather dries again is converted into thick clouds of dust. The
sideways, always lower than the central road, are usually filled by
pools of green water, whence arises the most horrible stench of decayed
vegetables and rotting carcases of animals, in addition to the
accumulated offal of the neighbouring houses. The wonder of it all is
that the entire population of Peking has not long since been swept away
by some appalling epidemic.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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