The Awakening of the East: Siberia—Japan—ChinaLeroy-Beaulieu, Pierre
History
The Awakening of the East: Siberia—Japan—China
Leroy-Beaulieu, Pierre
China; East Asia; Eastern question (Far East); Japan; Siberia (Russia)
As to monuments, there are very few in Peking worth the seeing, and into
these foreigners are never allowed to enter. Twenty-five or thirty years
ago visitors were admitted into a great number of the temples: that of
Heaven, which is now being restored, and where the Emperor goes annually
to make a sacrifice, and the Temples of the Sun, the Moon, and of
Agriculture, and they were even allowed to peep into the Imperial
Gardens; but since the entry of the Anglo-French troops into Peking, in
1860, the Chinese have been very reticent with respect to their
monuments, doubtless a consequence of the salutary lesson they then
received, which they are philosophical enough to endeavour to forget, as
all wise folk should do things that wound their pride. To-day the people
affect to believe the official story invented on that occasion to save
appearances, wherein it was stated that the Emperor Hien-feng, instead
of fleeing before the allies, merely went on a hunting excursion in his
park at Johol in Mongolia. Their usual insolence towards foreigners had
completely returned, to be modified, however, so soon as they heard of
the successes of the Japanese, and they were seized with absolute terror
at the prospect of beholding the Mikado’s army marching through their
gates.
When I was in Peking in the autumn of 1897 Europeans were very rarely
insulted in the streets. Before the War it was otherwise, and I myself,
like many another, did not escape the impertinence of the Chinese at
Canton. All the same, they took good care to close their monuments to
the inspection of the ‘foreign devils,’ and the only temple now open for
our inspection is that of Confucius, an immense but rather commonplace
hall with a steep roof supported on pillars painted a vivid red.
Foreigners are also permitted to visit the place where the literati
undergo their examinations. It consists of some thousands of little
cells lining several long, open corridors, wherein the unfortunate
candidates for law and medicine are shut for several days while they
answer the questions set them. Then there is the old Observatory,
wherein are two series of highly useful instruments. The first dates
from the time of the Mongol Dynasty in the thirteenth century, and lies
scattered half buried among the weeds at the bottom of the courtyard;
the second series is less antiquated, having been made under the
direction of the Jesuit Verbiest, who was astronomer to the Emperor of
China in the early part of the seventeenth century. They are shown on
the walls. After seeing these thoroughly up-to-date astronomical
instruments, one has visited all there is to be seen in the Imperial
city of Peking.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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