The Awakening of the East: Siberia—Japan—ChinaLeroy-Beaulieu, Pierre
History
The Awakening of the East: Siberia—Japan—China
Leroy-Beaulieu, Pierre
China; East Asia; Eastern question (Far East); Japan; Siberia (Russia)
The station-master at Kluchi, to whom I had been recommended, like many
other subordinate officials in Siberia, was an exile, who in better days
had been a captain in the artillery, and, moreover, the cashier of his
regiment. One fine day, in a fit of over-generosity, he unluckily lent a
sum of money, abstracted from the cash-box, to a comrade who had lost
very considerably at the gaming-tables. Fate avenged the regiment in the
shape of an inspector, who inopportunely arrived upon the scene,
examined into affairs, and forthwith ended the military career of the
unlucky officer. After fourteen years’ exile in Siberia this
indiscriminately good-natured individual has become chief inspector of a
little railway-station, and adds to his small income by letting out
tarantasses to travellers. He sold me for £18 the best of his vehicles,
which, I was assured, had recently been used by a distinguished
official, but, nevertheless, I had to get rid of it, when I took the
steamer on the Amur two months later, for about £7.
Jules Verne, in ‘Michael Strogoff,’ has introduced and popularized the
tarantass. It is a vehicle without springs, with a body about six feet
long, like a trough supported on three broad planks of wood, and mounted
upon two very low axles nine to ten feet apart. An immense hood protects
the back part of the carriage from the rain, and by buttoning the
leathern apron fixed to the front, one can keep one’s self almost
hermetically screened from the weather. The tarantass, if it is not
particularly comfortable, has the advantage of being very strong. It
possesses nothing in the shape of a seat, and one is obliged to lie
full-length on a litter of hay or upon the luggage, unless, indeed, from
time to time, in order to change position, one cares to sit on the edge
of the vehicle or else alongside the coachman. The horses are supplied
by the postmasters at the rate of three kopecks, or three farthings, per
verst for each horse, and, moreover, one has to pay a fixed tax of about
fivepence per horse at each relay. The team consists usually of three
horses, and the relays are found at a distance of about sixteen miles
apart. The expenses, therefore, for this short distance amount to about
five shillings, inclusive of a tip to the coachman, so that there is not
much to complain of in that respect. The same tariff applies in winter,
but in the intermediary seasons, from March 5 to May 15, and from
September 15 to December 1, when the thaw sets in and the roads are very
heavy, a fourth horse is needed, and the expense is increased about one
quarter. I used frequently to ask Siberians how many miles could be
performed in this sort of vehicle. Of course, almost everybody gave me a
different answer. One high official in Tomsk informed me that it could
undertake as many as 400 versts in twenty-four hours. ‘Do not imagine
you can go more than from sixty-five to eighty,’ said the
station-master, and as it was he who had sold me my tarantass, I came to
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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