The Bath Road: History, Fashion, & Frivolity on an Old HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Bath Road: History, Fashion, & Frivolity on an Old Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Bath Road (England); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
A diarist of over a century ago tells us how he went to Bath, and what he
saw and did there. This was the Reverend Thomas Campbell, a lively
Irishman (notwithstanding his Scottish name), who journeyed to England in
1775, and visited Johnson and other literary bigwigs in London, coming to
Bath on April 28, to take the waters. The coach set out from the New
Church in the Strand (by which, no doubt, Saint Mary-le-Strand is
indicated) at six o'clock in the morning, and came to Speenhamland
("Spinomland," says the clergyman in his diary), where they lay. The
country, he remarks, was very rich from London to this place, yet it was
so level that there was scarce a good prospect the whole way, unless
Clieveden, near Maidenhead Bridge could be so called.
[Illustration: OLD PULTENEY BRIDGE.]
When the coach resumed its journey the next day--the passengers,
doubtless, lightened in pocket by that "long bill" of the "Pelican" at
Speenhamland--the bleakness of Marlborough Downs communicated itself to
the air, and from Newbury to Cottenham,[8] a distance of nearly thirty
miles, the countryside was very bare of trees and herbage, in addition to
being the worst land this Irishman had seen in England, and certainly
swarming with beggars. For miles together the coach was pursued by them,
from two to nine at a time, almost all of them children. They were more
importunate than those of Ireland, or _even_ those in Wales. Poor Taffy!
When our traveller reached Bath he rejoiced greatly, and, the next day
being Sunday, went to the Abbey Church with other fashionables, and heard
a sorry discourse, wretchedly delivered. Afterwards, in the Pump Room,
where the yawning visitors were assembled, he met Lady Molyneux, who asked
him to dinner, where he spent the pleasantest day since he came to
England, for there were five or six lively Irish girls who sang and
danced, and did everything but agree among themselves. "Women," remarks
our diarist, "are certainly more envious than men, or at least they
discover it upon more trifling occasions, and they cannot bear with
patience that one of their party should obtain a preference of attention;
this was thoroughly exemplified this day. One of these, who was a pretty
little coquet, went home after dinner to dress for the Rooms, and her
colour was certainly altered on returning for tea; they all fell into a
titter, and one of them (who was herself painted, as I conceived) cried
out, 'Heavens, look at her cheeks!'" This, truly, was unkind, and more
certainly indiscreet. The young lady with the startling cheeks
subsequently sang a song, which somewhat surprised the clergyman, from its
breadth of idea, but the other ladies, and matrons too, "were kicking with
laughter." Presently they all went home, the ladies most affectionate
toward one another, and, says Mr. Campbell, "it is amazing what pleasure
women find in kissing each other, for they do smack amazingly."
[Sidenote: _A TORY PROPHECY_]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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