The Bath Road: History, Fashion, & Frivolity on an Old HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Bath Road: History, Fashion, & Frivolity on an Old Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Bath Road (England); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
"The wealth and colour of his lordship's language surprised me. I never
knew or heard a costermonger in the Dials with such a repertory. I saw him
once with a couple of choice friends on a costermonger's barrow, such as
is used for hawking fish or vegetables. One 'pal' had a 'yard of tin' (or
coaching horn), on which he tootled melodiously. His lordship wore a very
high collar, a blue birds-eye belcher fastened with a nursery-pin for a
necktie, a huge drab box-cloth coat with large mother-o'-pearl buttons, a
low-crowned, broad-brimmed coachman's hat, and a very tight pair of
trousers. It was raining, a pitiless, pelting drizzle, and as they pulled
up for drinks, he took off his heavy coat, and, placing it carefully over
the patient 'moke,' said to it, as he patted it, 'There y'are, Neddy;
that'll keep the bloomin' wet off you, old bloke, won't it?'"
For my own part, I think the latter part of that incident is the most
creditable thing on record in the "short and merry" life of poor
"Stomach-ache."
[Sidenote: _OLD TIMES ON THE ROAD_]
Savernake Forest left behind, the road descends steeply down Forest Hill
in the direction of Marlborough. This hill was one of the worst obstacles
met with between London and Bath in the old times, and its steepness was
then rendered more difficult by reason of the execrable surface of the
road. This is the experience of one travelling to London about 1816:
"Twenty times at least the eight horses came to a standstill, and had to
be allowed their own time before they would move. For more than half the
way up there lay an extensive encampment of gipsies along each side of the
road, forming a most picturesque scene with their wild figures, their
bright-coloured costumes, and dark bronzed skin; their white tents, and
the numerous columns of blue, thin smoke that curled upwards and lost
itself in the dense foliage. These stout vagabonds rendered us an
essential service; they cheered and lashed the horses, they pushed bodily
in the rear, and they climbed the spokes of the revolving wheels, to send
them round, with a recklessness and dexterity only acquired by long
practice. To compensate them for their labour, the coachman halted at the
top of the hill to give them a chance of trading; and then the women came
forward and did a little fortune-telling with the ladies, not without
joking and bantering on the part of the onlookers; while the younger
gipsies brought abundance of sweet wood-strawberries, dished up in
dock-leaves, than which nothing at the time could have been more welcome.
"During the first half of the journey to London our pace would not average
more than four miles an hour, and sometimes the tramps and wanderers of
the road would keep up with us for the hour together, especially the
pedlars and packmen, who would display their Brummagem wares, and now and
then effect a sale as we rumbled along."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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