The Bath Road: History, Fashion, & Frivolity on an Old HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Bath Road: History, Fashion, & Frivolity on an Old Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
Bath Road (England); England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs
The road between Newbury and Bath was in coaching days known as the "lower
ground." So far as physical geography goes, however, the land is a great
deal higher, and much more hilly than the "upper ground" between London
and Newbury, and it is not to be wondered at that accidents would
sometimes happen here. This, then, was the scene of an accident to a coach
driven by a gay young blade, one "Jack Everett;" an accident in which he
and an elderly lady passenger had a broken leg each. Both sufferers were
put into a cart filled with straw, and taken to the nearest surgeon. On
the road into Marlborough the coachman beguiled the tedium of the way and
the pain of his injured limb by saying to the old lady, "I have often
kissed a young woman, and I don't see why I shouldn't kiss an old
one"--and he suited the action to the words.
[Sidenote: _THE CHERHILL WHITE HORSE_]
Beckhampton inn, whose real sign is the "Waggon and Horses," is the place
mentioned by Dickens in the "Bagman's Story" in the _Pickwick Papers_. It
remains as old-fashioned to-day as ever,[5] but does not very closely
resemble the word-picture Dickens draws of it. He probably made
acquaintance with the downs and the inn only in passing on his way between
Bath and London in 1835. It stands at a spot where the road promises to
become more cheerful and less gaunt and inhospitable; but the promise is
not kept, the way going inexorably again along downs as bare as before,
for another two miles. All the way between here and Cherhill village the
"Lansdowne Column" is seen crowning the rolling hills to the left front.
Built within the ramparts of an ancient hill-fort of the Danes, who
encamped naturally enough in the most inaccessible position they could
find, this "column," which is an obelisk, is an exceedingly prominent
object in every direction. As one proceeds and turns the flank of the
hill, the strange sight of a trotting White Horse is seen carved in the
chalk of its swelling shoulder. This is not one of the ancient White
Horses that decorate the hillsides of some parts of the West County and
date from Anglo-Saxon times, but dates only from 1780, when it was cut by
Dr. Allsop, an eccentric physician of Calne. The site it occupies is said
to be the highest point between London and Bath, and the White Horse is
supposed to be visible for thirty miles--which there is no occasion to
believe. The figure measures 157 feet from head to tail, and the eye alone
is 12 feet in diameter. The way the figure was designed is just a little
curious.
No one could possibly have correctly traced the outlines of so huge an
affair, except by external aid, which probably accounts for the bad
drawing of the ancient examples. Dr. Allsop adopted the plan of stationing
himself on the downs in full view of the rough draft, so to speak, which
he had already staked out with flags, and of shouting directions to his
workmen by the aid of a speaking-trumpet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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