The Bible in Spain: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman, in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the PeninsulaBorrow, George
Religion
The Bible in Spain: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman, in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the Peninsula
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- History -- 19th century
I have visited most of the principal capitals of the world, but upon the
whole none has ever so interested me as this city of Madrid, in which I
now found myself. I will not dwell upon its streets, its edifices, its
public squares, its fountains, though some of these are remarkable
enough: but Petersburg has finer streets, Paris and Edinburgh more
stately edifices, London far nobler squares, whilst Shiraz can boast of
more costly fountains, though not cooler waters. But the population!
Within a mud wall, scarcely one league and a half in circuit, are
contained two hundred thousand human beings, certainly forming the most
extraordinary vital mass to be found in the entire world; and be it
always remembered that this mass is strictly Spanish. The population of
Constantinople is extraordinary enough, but to form it twenty nations
have contributed; Greeks, Armenians, Persians, Poles, Jews, the latter,
by the by, of Spanish origin, and speaking amongst themselves the old
Spanish language; but the huge population of Madrid, with the exception
of a sprinkling of foreigners, chiefly French tailors, glove-makers and
peruquiers, is strictly Spanish, though a considerable portion are not
natives of the place. Here are no colonies of Germans, as at Saint
Petersburg; no English factories, as at Lisbon; no multitudes of insolent
Yankees lounging through the streets as at the Havannah, with an air
which seems to say, the land is our own whenever we choose to take it;
but a population which, however strange and wild, and composed of various
elements, is Spanish, and will remain so as long as the city itself shall
exist. Hail, ye aguadores of Asturia! who, in your dress of coarse
duffel and leathern skull-caps, are seen seated in hundreds by the
fountain sides, upon your empty water-casks, or staggering with them
filled to the topmost stories of lofty houses. Hail, ye caleseros of
Valencia! who, lolling lazily against your vehicles, rasp tobacco for
your paper cigars whilst waiting for a fare. Hail to you, beggars of La
Mancha! men and women, who, wrapped in coarse blankets, demand charity
indifferently at the gate of the palace or the prison. Hail to you,
valets from the mountains, mayordomos and secretaries from Biscay and
Guipuscoa, toreros from Andalusia, riposteros from Galicia, shopkeepers
from Catalonia! Hail to ye, Castilians, Estremenians and Aragonese, of
whatever calling! And lastly, genuine sons of the capital, rabble of
Madrid, ye twenty thousand manolos, whose terrible knifes, on the second
morning of May, worked such grim havoc amongst the legions of Murat!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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