The Bible in Spain: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman, in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the PeninsulaBorrow, George
Religion
The Bible in Spain: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman, in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the Peninsula
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- History -- 19th century
We spent the night at Medina, and departing early next morning, passed
through much the same country as the day before, until about noon we
reached a small venta, distant half a league from the Duero; here we
reposed ourselves during the heat of the day, and then remounting,
crossed the river by a handsome stone bridge, and directed our course to
Valladolid. The banks of the Duero in this place have much beauty: they
abound with trees and brushwood, amongst which, as we passed along,
various birds were singing melodiously. A delicious coolness proceeded
from the water, which in some parts brawled over stones or rippled
fleetly over white sand, and in others glided softly over blue pools of
considerable depth. By the side of one of these last, sat a woman of
about thirty, neatly dressed as a peasant; she was gazing upon the water
into which she occasionally flung flowers and twigs of trees. I stopped
for a moment to ask a question; she, however, neither looked up nor
answered, but continued gazing at the water as if lost to consciousness
of all beside. “Who is that woman?” said I to a shepherd, whom I met the
moment after. “She is mad, _la pobrecita_,” said he; “she lost her child
about a month ago in that pool, and she has been mad ever since; they are
going to send her to Valladolid, to the Casa de los Locos. There are
many who perish every year in the eddies of the Duero; it is a bad river;
_vaya usted con la Virgen_, _Caballero_.” So I rode on through the
pinares, or thin scanty pine forests, which skirt the way to Valladolid
in this direction.
Valladolid is seated in the midst of an immense valley, or rather hollow
which seems to have been scooped by some mighty convulsion out of the
plain ground of Castile. The eminences which appear in the neighbourhood
are not properly high grounds, but are rather the sides of this hollow.
They are jagged and precipitous, and exhibit a strange and uncouth
appearance. Volcanic force seems at some distant period to have been
busy in these districts. Valladolid abounds with convents, at present
deserted, which afford some of the finest specimens of architecture in
Spain. The principal church, though rather ancient, is unfinished: it
was intended to be a building of vast size, but the means of the founders
were insufficient to carry out their plan: it is built of rough granite.
Valladolid is a manufacturing town, but the commerce is chiefly in the
hands of the Catalans, of whom there is a colony of nearly three hundred
established here. It possesses a beautiful alameda, or public walk,
through which flows the river Escurva. The population is said to amount
to sixty thousand souls.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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