The Bible in Spain: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman, in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the PeninsulaBorrow, George
Religion
The Bible in Spain: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman, in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the Peninsula
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- History -- 19th century
On the next day we pursued our journey, a dreary one, for the most part,
over bleak and barren plains, interspersed with silent and cheerless
towns and villages, which stood at the distance of two or three leagues
from each other. About midday we obtained a dim and distant view of an
immense range of mountains, which are in fact those which bound Castile
on the north. The day, however, became dim and obscure, and we speedily
lost sight of them. A hollow wind now arose and blew over these desolate
plains with violence, wafting clouds of dust into our faces; the rays of
the sun were few, and those red and angry. I was tired of my journey,
and when about four we reached ---, a large village, half way between
Palencia and Leon, I declared my intention of stopping for the night. I
scarcely ever saw a more desolate place than this same town or village of
---. The houses were for the most part large, but the walls were of mud,
like those of barns. We saw no person in the long winding street to
direct us to the venta, or posada, till at last, at the farther end of
the place, we descried two black figures standing at a door, of whom, on
making inquiry, we learned that the door at which they stood was that of
the house we were in quest of. There was something strange in the
appearance of these two beings, who seemed the genii of the place. One
was a small slim man, about fifty, with sharp, ill-natured features. He
was dressed in coarse black worsted stockings, black breeches, and an
ample black coat with long trailing skirts. I should at once have taken
him for an ecclesiastic, but for his hat, which had nothing clerical
about it, being a pinched diminutive beaver. His companion was of low
stature, and a much younger man. He was dressed in similar fashion, save
that he wore a dark blue cloak. Both carried walking sticks in their
hands, and kept hovering about the door, now within and now without,
occasionally looking up the road, as if they expected some one.
“Trust me, mon maître,” said Antonio to me, in French, “those two fellows
are Carlist priests, and are awaiting the arrival of the Pretender. _Les
imbeciles_!”
We conducted our horses to the stable, to which we were shown by the
woman of the house. “Who are those men?” said I to her.
“The eldest is head curate to our pueblo,” said she; “the other is
brother to my husband. Pobrecito! he was a friar in our convent before
it was shut up and the brethren driven forth.”
We returned to the door. “I suppose, gentlemen,” said the curate, “that
you are Catalans. Do you bring any news from that kingdom?”
“Why do you suppose we are Catalans?” I demanded.
“Because I heard you this moment conversing in that language.”
“I bring no news from Catalonia,” said I. “I believe, however, that the
greater part of that principality is in the hands of the Carlists.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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