The Bible in Spain, Vol. 1 [of 2]: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the PeninsulaBorrow, George
Religion
The Bible in Spain, Vol. 1 [of 2]: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the Peninsula
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- History -- 19th century
On the next day we pursued our journey, a dreary one, for the most part,
over bleak and barren plains, interspersed with silent and cheerless
towns and villages, which stood at the distance of two or three leagues
from each other. About midday we obtained a dim and distant view of an
immense range of mountains, {310b} which are in fact those which bound
Castile on the north. The day, however, became dim and obscure, and we
speedily lost sight of them. A hollow wind now arose and blew over these
desolate plains with violence, wafting clouds of dust into our faces; the
rays of the sun were few, and those red and angry. I was tired of my
journey, and when about four we reached ---, {311} a large village,
halfway between Palencia and Leon, I declared my intention of stopping
for the night. I scarcely ever saw a more desolate place than this same
town or village of ---. The houses were for the most part large, but the
walls were of mud, like those of barns. We saw no person in the long
winding street to direct us to the _venta_, or _posada_, till at last, at
the farther end of the place, we descried two black figures standing at a
door, of whom, on making inquiry, we learned that the door at which they
stood was that of the house we were in quest of. There was something
strange in the appearance of these two beings, who seemed the genii of
the place. One was a small slim man, about fifty, with sharp ill-natured
features. He was dressed in coarse black worsted stockings, black
breeches, and an ample black coat with long trailing skirts. I should at
once have taken him for an ecclesiastic, but for his hat, which had
nothing clerical about it, being a pinched diminutive beaver. His
companion was of low stature, and a much younger man. He was dressed in
similar fashion, save that he wore a dark blue cloak. Both carried
walking-sticks in their hands, and kept hovering about the door, now
within and now without, occasionally looking up the road, as if they
expected some one.
“Trust me, _mon maître_,” said Antonio to me, in French, “those two
fellows are Carlist priests, and are awaiting the arrival of the
Pretender. _Les imbeciles_!”
We conducted our horses to the stable, to which we were shown by the
woman of the house. “Who are those men?” said I to her.
“The eldest is head curate to our _pueblo_,” said she; “the other is
brother to my husband. _Pobrecito_! he was a friar in our convent before
it was shut up and the brethren driven forth.”
We returned to the door. “I suppose, gentlemen,” said the curate, “that
you are Catalans? Do you bring any news from that kingdom?”
“Why do you suppose we are Catalans?” I demanded.
“Because I heard you this moment conversing in that language.”
“I bring no news from Catalonia,” {312} said I. “I believe, however,
that the greater part of that principality is in the hands of the
Carlists.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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