{196} Señor Menendez Pelayo remarks that the government was too busy with Carlists in the country and revolutionaries in the city to care very much about Borrow or the Bible, and they therefore allowed him for the moment to do pretty much as he pleased (_Heterodoxos Españoles_, tom. iii. p. 662). {197} Or San Ildefonso. {198} This was August 14, 1836. {199} The General Post-office. {204a} Gypsy fellows. {204b} A compound of the modern Greek πέταλον, and the Sanscrit _kara_, the literal meaning being _Lord_ of the horse-shoe (i.e. _maker_); it is one of the private cognominations of “The Smiths,” an English gypsy clan.—[Note by Borrow.] See _The Zincali_, vol. i. p. 31; _Romano Lavo-Lil_, p. 226, and the Glossary. {206} Of these lines the following translation, in the style of the old English ballad, will, perhaps, not be unacceptable:— “What down the hill comes hurrying there?— With a hey, with a ho, a sword and a gun! Quesada’s bones, which a hound doth bear. Hurrah, brave brothers!—the work is done.” —[Note by Borrow.] {207a} “One night I was with thee.” {207b} Don Rafael, son of D. Eugenio Antonio del Riego y Nuñez, whose poems were published in 1844 by D. Miguel del Riego, Canon of Oviedo, was born at Oviedo on the 24th October, 1785. On the 1st January, 1820, he began the revolt against Ferdinand VII. (see Introduction, p. xvi.), at Las Cabezas de San Juan. He was finally hanged at Madrid on the 7th November, 1823. _El Himno de Riego_, the Spanish _Marseillaise_, was composed by Huerta in 1820, the words being written by Evariste San-Miguel. {207c} “_Au revoir_, Sir George!” {208} 1836. {212a} Dom José Agostinho Freire was minister of war to Dom Pedro, and subsequently minister of the interior under the Duke of Terceira. In 1836 he was murdered at Lisbon by the National Guard, while driving in his carriage. {212b} The Carlist leader. See Duncan, _The English in Spain_, p. 88. {214} Latin, _Bætis_ = the river afterwards named by the Arabs _Wady al Kebir_, the _Guadalquivir_. {215} The vane, _porque gira_. The modern tower is about 275 feet high. See Girault de Prangey, _Essai sur l’Architecture des Maures et Arabes_ (1841), pp. 103–112. {216a} The largest and perhaps the grandest of the mediæval cathedrals, not only of Spain, but of Europe. It was commenced in 1403, and completed about 1520. {216b} 1350–1369. {216c} Triana, for long the Whitefriars or Alsatia of Seville, the resort of thieves, gypsies, and _mala gente_ of every description. See _Zincali_, pt. ii. chap. ii. The Arabic _Tarayana_ is said to perpetuate the name of the Emperor Trajan, who was certainly born in the neighbourhood, and who would not be proud of his supposed _conciudadanos_! The modern suburb was almost entirely destroyed by the overflowing of the Guadalquivir in 1876. There is now (1895) a permanent bridge across the river.