The Bible in Spain, Vol. 2 [of 2]: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the PeninsulaBorrow, George
Religion
The Bible in Spain, Vol. 2 [of 2]: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the Peninsula
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- History -- 19th century
A large boat now drew nigh, the stern of which was filled with Moors;
there might be about twelve, and the greater part evidently consisted of
persons of distinction, as they were dressed in all the pomp and
gallantry of the East, with snow-white turbans, _jabadores_ of green silk
or scarlet cloth, and _bedeyas_ rich with gold galloon. Some of them
were exceedingly fine men, and two amongst them, youths, were strikingly
handsome, and, so far from exhibiting the dark swarthy countenance of
Moors in general, their complexions were of a delicate red and white.
The principal personage, and to whom all the rest paid much deference,
was a tall athletic man of about forty. He wore a vest of white quilted
cotton, and white _kandrisa_, whilst gracefully wound round his body, and
swathing the upper part of his head, was the _haik_, or white flannel
wrapping plaid, always held in so much estimation by the Moors from the
earliest period of their history. His legs were bare, and his feet only
protected from the ground by yellow slippers. He displayed no further
ornament than one large gold earring, from which depended a pearl,
evidently of great price. A noble black beard, about a foot in length,
touched his muscular breast. His features were good, with the exception
of the eyes, which were somewhat small; their expression, however, was
evil; their glances were sullen; and malignity and ill-nature were
painted in every lineament of his countenance, which seemed never to have
been brightened with a smile. The Spanish sailor, of whom I have already
had occasion to speak, informed me in a whisper, that he was a
_santurron_, {337} or big saint, and was so far back on his way from
Mecca, adding, that he was a merchant of immense wealth. It soon
appeared that the other Moors had merely attended him on board through
friendly politeness, as they all successively came to bid him adieu, with
the exception of two blacks, who were his attendants. I observed that
these blacks, when the Moors presented them their hands at departing,
invariably made an effort to press them to their lips, which effort was
as uniformly foiled, the Moors in every instance, by a speedy and
graceful movement, drawing back their hand locked in that of the black,
which they pressed against their own heart; as much as to say, “though a
negro and a slave you are a Moslem, and being so, you are our
brother—Allah knows no distinctions.” The boatman now went up to the
_haji_, demanding payment, stating, at the same time, that he had been on
board three times on his account, conveying his luggage. The sum which
he demanded appeared exorbitant to the _haji_, who, forgetting that he
was a saint, and fresh from Mecca, fumed outrageously, and in broken
Spanish called the boatman thief. If there be any term of reproach which
stings a Spaniard (and such was the boatman) more than another, it is
that one; and the fellow no sooner heard it applied to himself, than,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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