The Bible in Spain, Vol. 2 [of 2]: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the PeninsulaBorrow, George
Religion
The Bible in Spain, Vol. 2 [of 2]: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the Peninsula
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- History -- 19th century
“_Ca_!” said they, “the swords of Toledo were never so good as those
which we are daily making. It is ridiculous enough to see strangers
coming here to purchase old swords, the greater part of which are mere
rubbish, and never made at Toledo, yet for such they will give a large
price, whilst they would grudge two dollars for this jewel, which was
made but yesterday;” thereupon putting into my hand a middle-sized
rapier. “Your worship,” said they, “seems to have a strong arm; prove
its temper against the stone wall—thrust boldly and fear not.”
I _have_ a strong arm, and dashed the point with my utmost force against
the solid granite: my arm was numbed to the shoulder from the violence of
the concussion, and continued so for nearly a week, but the sword
appeared not to be at all blunted, or to have suffered in any respect.
“A better sword than that,” said an ancient workman, a native of Old
Castile, “never transfixed Moor out yonder on the _sagra_.”
During my stay at Toledo, I lodged at the Posada de los Caballeros, which
signifies the inn of the gentlemen, which name, in some respects, it
certainly well deserved, for there are many palaces far less magnificent
than this inn of Toledo. By magnificence it must not be supposed,
however, that I allude to costliness of furniture or any kind of luxury
which pervaded the culinary department. The rooms were as empty as those
of Spanish inns generally are, and the fare, though good in its kind, was
plain and homely; but I have seldom seen a more imposing edifice. It was
of immense size, consisting of several stories, and was built something
in the Moorish taste, with a quadrangular court in the centre, beneath
which was an immense _algibe_ or tank, serving as a reservoir for
rain-water. All the houses in Toledo are supplied with tanks of this
description, into which the waters in the rainy season flow from the
roofs through pipes. No other water is used for drinking; that of the
Tagus, not being considered salubrious, is only used for purposes of
cleanliness, being conveyed up the steep narrow streets on donkeys, in
large stone jars. The city, standing on a rocky mountain, has no wells.
As for the rain-water, it deposits a sediment in the tank, and becomes
very sweet and potable: these tanks are cleaned out twice every year.
During the summer, at which time the heat in this part of Spain is
intense, the families spend the greater part of the day in the courts,
which are overhung with a linen awning, the heat of the atmosphere being
tempered by the coolness arising from the tank below, which answers the
same purpose as the fountain in the southern provinces of Spain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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