From the Golo Brdo the best frontier would pass north-eastwards to the
Black Drin and along that river until it is joined by the White Drin.
This is a poor country whose inhabitants are, for the most part,
Moslemized Serbs. About a hundred men are now engaged in excavating the
very finely decorated Serbian church at Piškopalja on the Drin--much
to the edification of the local Moslems. This church of their ancestors
was covered in during the Middle Ages in order to conceal it from the
Turks. Too often the natives' present occupation is brigandage; but from
of old they have had economic relations with Prizren, to which old town
of vine-arched, narrow, winding streets and picturesque bazaars these
countryfolk have been accustomed to come every week. These Moslems (of
whom there are some 100,000 in the department of Prizren, with 13,000
Orthodox and 3000 Catholics) used to detest the Christians on account of
their religion, although half of the Moslems could speak nothing but
Serbian. The Serbs, it must be admitted, were not always blameless; in
the early nineties, for example, they suspended a pig's head outside the
mosque. And the amenities of Prizren were complicated by the hostility
between Orthodox and Catholic. This was largely due to the fact that, by
the intervention of the French Consul after the Crimean War, the
Catholics--descendants of Ragusan emigrants of the Middle Ages--had
secured the former Orthodox church of St. Demetrius, in which church, by
the way, the services had come to be held in Albanian. When the Vatican,
in the second half of the nineteenth century, sent a Serbian priest, the
congregation had become so thoroughly Albanized that after a year he had
to leave. The propaganda of Austria, Italy and Russia did nothing
towards persuading the three religions of Prizren to regard each other
in a more amicable fashion; while Italy and Austria gave exclusive
assistance to the Catholics, whom they found in such distress that,
forty years ago, most of them went barefoot, the presence of the Russian
Consul was of such importance to the Orthodox that their position at
Prizren was better than in their old patriarchal town of Peć.
Nowadays, with Austrian and Russian propaganda deleted, there is only
that of the Italians, whose proposal to create an independent Albania
(under Italian protection) was at first applauded by some simple folk in
1919. The Moslem took to accepting Italian money and then honourably
informing the Yugoslav authorities that they had been appointed as
agents of Italy; they offered to capture the Franciscan priests with
whose help the Italians were trying to secure the Catholics; and as for
the cash, it seems mostly to have been spent in a convivial fashion by
the Moslems and the Serbs together. This friendship appears likely to
continue, for the Serbian authorities, so far from countenancing such
pranks as that of the pig's head, do not even propose to reconsecrate
their ancient church of Petka.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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