The hard cheeses form a great series of groups, whose most prominent
physical character is their firm or hard texture. This is correlated
with comparatively low water-content, which is usually between 30 and 40
per cent. Although certain varieties occasionally test above 40 per cent
water, this deviation is accompanied by quick ripening and rapid
spoilage. These varieties of cheese are staple products with long
marketable periods; therefore they may be handled in large lots,
shipped, carted and stored freely without the losses such treatment
would entail in soft cheese. The retailer frequently buys hard cheese by
the ton, not by the cheese or by the box.
In making, these varieties are characterized as cooked and pressed
cheeses. Although both the heating of a curd and the pressing of a newly
made cheese occur among semi-hard forms, these practices appear in their
most typical forms in the hard cheeses.
The hard cheeses show two types of texture. A cut cheese may appear
smooth, free from holes or with a few angular cracks or seams, or it may
show round holes or "eyes." In the smooth textured forms every effort is
made to prevent gassy fermentations, usually by controlling the
fermentation of the curd in the making process. When "eyes" are present,
the end sought has been a development of a particular form of gassy
fermentation which gives this appearance and brings about the
characteristic ripening texture and flavor.
The hard cheeses have been developed in groups of national varieties.
The best known of these groups are those which may be represented by
English Cheddar, American Factory Cheddar, Danish, the Edam of Holland,
Swiss and Parmesan with many related varieties in Italy and neighboring
countries of southern Europe.
+181. The Danish group.+--The Danish cheeses are related in appearance
and flavor to the English group represented by Cheddar. The demand for
butter in Europe has been so great that the Danish cheese-makers have
developed skim and part skim varieties largely to the exclusion of the
whole milk form. Skillful handling of their process has resulted in a
product which has had a very large and appreciative market in England
and Germany.
+182. The Dutch group.+--Edam and Gouda are the two forms of cheese made
in Holland and most widely known among other peoples. Both reach America
in considerable quantities; both are shipped in large amounts to
tropical countries. Although attempts have been made to manufacture them
in America, no commercial production of these cheeses has been
successful. Although whole milk grades of these cheeses are known, they
are to a large measure part skim in manufacture. The presence of one or
both of these forms in every large market in America makes the general
facts of their production of general interest. Parts of a report on
experimental work in the making of Edam and Gouda are, therefore, given
here.
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