_Cooking the curd._--After cutting, the curd is stirred in the whey for
about twenty minutes before the steam is turned on and is then heated to
128° to 135° F. While this heating is in progress, constant stirring
must be given to avoid matting. This excessive stirring breaks the curd
up into pieces about the size of wheat kernels, and accounts for the
large fat loss, which is one of the main sources of loss in making Swiss
cheese. This stirring is accomplished by a rotary motion, and the use of
a brake, which is a piece of wood closely fitting the side of the
kettle. This creates an eddy in the current at that point and gives a
more uniform distribution of temperature. The process of cooking takes
from thirty to forty minutes, and at the end of that time the degree of
toughness may be determined by making a roll of curd in the hand, and
noticing the break when it is given a quick flip. A short sharp break
indicates the desired toughness.
_Draining and hooping._--In this process, the cheese-makers' skill is
displayed. With the hoop prepared, and the curd at the correct stage of
toughness, the operator takes a press cloth, wets it in whey, slips it
over a flexible iron ring which can be made to fit the shape of the
kettle, gives the contents of the kettle a few swift revolutions, then
suddenly reverses the motion, with the result that the contents form
into a cone, and the ring and bandage are dexterously slipped under this
cone, and drawn up to the surface of the whey with a rope or chain and
pulley. This part of the process is the most important, as a cheese must
have a smooth firm rind, else it will quickly crack. With too large a
batch of milk, the curd can be cut into two pieces and hooped
separately. With the mass of curd at the top of the whey, the piece of
perforated iron plate just the size of the hoop is slipped under the
mass, and attached to the pulley by four chains. Then the top of the
mass is carefully leveled off, because while still in the whey, it
cannot mat badly and so tend to develop a rind crack. Now the mass is
raised clear of the whey, and run along a short track to the drain
table, where it is put in the press.
_Pressing._--The mass of curd is dropped into the hoop, the edges of the
cloth carefully folded under, and the cloth laid on top, then the
pressure is applied, gradually at first, but increasing until the final
pressure is about fifteen to twenty pounds to a pound of cheese.
During the first few hours the cloths must be changed frequently, and
the cheese carefully turned over each time, to secure a more uniform
rind. After a time the changes are less frequent, and at the end of
twenty-four hours the cheese is taken to the salting-room.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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