The ripened soft cheeses include a series of groups of varieties which,
in addition to initial souring, have been subjected to special ripening
processes, and which in the ripened condition are soft in texture and
mostly have high flavors. The varieties in each group have in common
some essential principles of manufacture together with a ripening
process dominated by a characteristic group of organisms. In certain
groups, the ripening is dominated by a yellowish or orange viscid
surface slime containing _Oidium lactis_ and bacteria; in another
series, the characteristic organism is a mold of the genus Penicillium
(_P. Camemberti_). Referring to the analysis of groups (page 83), the
ripened soft cheeses are found to fall into three well-marked groups,
one of which may perhaps be subdivided as indicated. The series curdled
by souring alone begins with approximately cottage cheese curd and
develops high flavors by ripening, as in "hand" cheese. Ripened
Neufchâtel curdled by souring and rennet together finds its basis in
Neufchâtel curd also but modifies the final product until the familiar
flavor and texture of the unripened form are no longer recognizable.
Among the forms curdled by rennet alone the Camembert series contains
one form, Coulommiers, which is occasionally used unripe, but represents
in general a mold-ripened group of highly flavored forms. The series of
soft rennet cheeses ripened by bacteria may be broadly designated the
Limburger group.
+139. Hand cheese and its allies.+--Among skim cheeses, there is a
series of forms largely German in origin in which curd not far removed
from cottage cheese is the basis of the product. Harz cheese is one of
the best-known of these forms as studied by Eckles and Rahn.[42] One of
these forms, hand cheese,[43] is manufactured on a commercial basis in
farm dairies among families of German descent principally in
Pennsylvania, and on a factory basis in a few places in New York,
northern Illinois and Wisconsin. On the small scale, curd is made by
natural souring or by use of starter, heated to expel water, cooled and
molded by hand into cakes two to three inches in diameter and one-half
to three-quarters inch in thickness. The freshly formed cakes are placed
upon a shelf to dry. There they are turned daily until fairly firm, then
packed in rolls into wooden boxes and ripened in a cool damp room. In
this ripening there is a prompt development of a heavy viscous slime,
which consists of Oidium and bacteria. Other molds forming loose cottony
mycelium are brushed off if they appear. The proper consistency of this
slimy covering depends on a close adjustment of water-content in the
cheese with temperature and relative humidity in the ripening room. If
conditions are too dry, the cheeses harden quickly or if less dry they
are attacked by green or blue-green molds. If too wet, the slimy
covering becomes too soft and watery, or secondarily covered with loose
shimmering masses of mold (Mucor sp.).
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