+155. The Isigny group.+--A series of names, d'Isigny, Brie, Brie
d'Isigny, combined with trade names, are used for a domestic cheese,
made in a small number of factories distributed over New York,
Pennsylvania, Michigan, Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa and California. The
cheeses sold under the separate varietal names differ only in diameter;
their thickness is fairly uniform; the process of manufacture and
ripening with resultant textures and flavors furnishes no fundamental
varietal characters, although the products of the several factories show
noticeable differences in market quality. D'Isigny, while the name of a
French town famous for butter production, is not used to designate a
cheese in France. It may, therefore, be accepted as a French name
arbitrarily applied to a domestic product. Brie as used in France is a
markedly different cheese (p. 131), and the name should be dropped from
this form as made in America. As used for a member of this series made
in America, it merely means cheese 7 to 15 inches in diameter. The
cheese partakes of the characters of French Livarot, and of Pont
l'Eveque without exactly reproducing either form.
The milk varies from separator skim to whole milk, with resultant
differences in quality. Freedom from gas is essential to the best
results. The milk is curdled at 85° to 86° F. with sufficient rennet to
produce a very firm curd within a period of one and one-half hours. Curd
is then cut in two directions, allowed to stand a few minutes or gently
agitated to produce a very slight toughness or "worked" condition, then
scooped into hoops 4½ to 5 inches in height and varying in diameter
from 2½ to 15 inches according to the size selected for manufacture.
To aid in the escape of whey, three rows of holes 1/12 inch in diameter
and 2 inches apart in the row are made in each hoop. The hoops are
arranged upon draining tables with more or less corrugated surface,
which for best drainage should be covered with matting. The cheeses are
allowed to drain without pressure. They are commonly turned the second
morning, although they are sometimes solid enough to turn within the
first day. When fully drained, the cheeses are salted by rubbing coarse
salt on the surface, after which they stand an extra day. They are then
arranged upon shelves in a ripening room held between 50° and 60° F.
with humidity so high that evaporation is kept at a minimum. In this
room, a surface slime develops quickly. This consists of bacteria of
several forms, yeasts, _Oidium lactis_ and accidental species of other
molds. During this ripening, the cheeses are turned, rubbed with the
hands, washed with salt water and scraped if infected with molds which
produce colored colonies. In the course of ripening, the slimy surface
layer acquires a yellowish orange color with the strong odor and taste
characteristic of the series.
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