Experimental Gorgonzola cheeses comparable with the Italian product were
made with cow's milk ripened as for Roquefort or higher, to 0.25-0.30
per cent (titrated as lactic acid), curdled at 86° F. (30° C.), cut into
cubes and slightly stirred, then dipped to a draining board for about
one-half hour, and put into the hoop. The cheeses drained quickly to
about 50 percent water and developed a surface rind as in the harder
cheeses. Cut surfaces showed a fairly open cheese in which mold grew
readily. These cheeses were salted to taste, not to a specified
percentage. They ripened with the same irregular results and the
characteristic range of flavors found in Gorgonzola. To avoid the
rotting of the cheese by surface growths, they were exposed to low
humidities for a time and cracks opened at the surfaces, as seen in the
ripening rooms at Lecco (Fig. 24). The texture was more or less waxy or
tough, which was correlated with the slightly higher heat at renneting
together with the stirring or "working" of the curd. Comparative
analyses of a series of imported cheeses confirm the interpretation that
the salt-content of Roquefort, 4 per cent approximately, prevents the
invasion of the interior of the cheese by Oidium. No complete study of
the ripening of Gorgonzola has been made. As far as followed, it
consists in an initial souring process followed by ripening by molds and
slime organisms. At its best, Gorgonzola is nearly equal to Roquefort
but the percentage of such quality is low. In spite of its irregular
quality, England has used larger amounts of Gorgonzola than of
Roquefort. Considerable quantities have been imported for the Italian
trade in the United States.
[Illustration: FIG. 25.--Gorgonzola cheese curing-room.]
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