That night he stayed with a Circassian family in a little house of
only one room into which were crowded his two horses, a mule, two
donkeys, a yoke of oxen, some sheep and goats, a crowd of cocks and
hens, four small dirty children and their father and mother; and a
great multitude of fleas.
The mother fried him a supper of eggs with bread, and after it he
showed them something that they had never seen before. He took out of
his pack a copy of the New Testament translated into Arabic.[66] He
read bits out of it and talked to them about the Love of God.
Early next morning, his saddle-bag stuffed with a batch of loaves
which the woman had baked first thing in the morning specially for
him, he set out again.
How could a whole batch of loaves be stuffed in one saddle-bag? The
loaves are flat and circular like a pancake. The dough is spread on a
kind of cushion, the woman takes up the cushion with the dough on it,
pushes it through the opening and slaps the dough on the inner wall
of a big mud oven (out of doors) that has been heated with a fire
of twigs, and in a minute or two pushes the cushion in again and the
cooked bread falls on to it.
So Forder climbed up the mountain track till he came out on the high
plain. He saw the desert in front of him--like a vast rolling ocean of
glowing gold it stretched away and away for close on a thousand miles
eastward to the Persian Gulf. Forder knew that only here and there in
all those blazing, sandy wastes were oases where men could build their
houses round some well or little stream that soon lost itself in the
sand. All the rest was desert across which man and beast must hurry
or die of thirst. He must follow the camel-tracks from oasis to oasis,
where they could find a well of water, therefore drink for man and
camel, and date-palms.
So turning north he pressed on[67] till on the sixth day out from
Jerusalem the clouds came up with the dawn, and hail and rain, carried
by a biting east wind, beat down upon him. Lifting his eyes to the
horizon he saw ahead the sturdy castle and thick walls of the ancient
city of Bosra. Stumbling through the storm, along the narrow winding
streets, he met, to his disgust, a man whose dress showed that he was
a Turkish Government official. He knew that the Turkish Government
would be against a Christian and a foreigner going into their land.
"Who are you?" asked the official, stopping him. "Where are you from?
Where are you going?"
Forder told him, and the man said. "Come with me. I will find you and
your horses shelter at the Governor's house." Forder followed him into
a large room in the middle of which on the floor a fire was burning.
"I must examine all your cases," said the official. "Get up. Open your
boxes."
"Never," said Forder. "This is not a custom-house."
"Your boxes are full of powder for arming the Arabs against the
Turkish Government," replied the official.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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