The Book of the National ParksYard, Robert Sterling
History
The Book of the National Parks
Yard, Robert Sterling
National parks and reserves -- United States
The man, then, whose tendency to gout, let us say, forbids him ride a
horse or walk more than a couple of easy miles a day may, nevertheless,
miss nothing of Glacier's meaning and magnificence provided he takes the
trouble to understand. But he must take the trouble; he must comprehend
the few examples that he sees; this is his penalty for refusing the rich
experience of the trail, which, out of its very fulness, drives meaning
home with little mental effort. His knowledge must be got from six
places only which may be reached by vehicle, at least three of which,
however, may be included among the world's great scenic places. He can
find at Two Medicine, St. Mary, and McDermott superb examples of
Glacier's principal scenic elements.
Entering at Glacier Park, he will have seen the range from the plains,
an important beginning; already, approaching from the east, he has
watched it grow wonderfully on the horizon. So suddenly do these painted
mountains spring from the grassy plain that it is a relief to recognize
in them the advance guard of the Lewis Overthrust, vast fragments of the
upheavals of the depths pushed eastward by the centuries to their final
resting-places upon the surface of the prairie. From the hotel porches
they glow gray and yellow and purple and rose and pink, according to the
natural coloring of their parts and the will of the sun--a splendid
ever-changing spectacle.
THE TWO MEDICINE COUNTRY
An hour's automobile-ride from Glacier Park Hotel will enable our
traveller to penetrate the range at a point of supreme beauty and stand
beside a chalet at the foot of Two Medicine Lake. He will face what
appears to be a circular lake in a densely forested valley from whose
shore rises a view of mountains which will take his breath. In the near
centre stands a cone of enormous size and magnificence--Mount
Rockwell--faintly blue, mistily golden, richly purple, dull silver, or
red and gray, according to the favor of the hour and the sky. Upon its
left and somewhat back rises a smaller similar cone, flatter but quite
as perfectly proportioned, known as Grizzly Mountain, and upon its right
less regular masses. In the background, connecting all, are more distant
mountains flecked with snow, the continental divide. Towering mountains
close upon him upon both sides, that upon his right a celebrity in red
argillite known as Rising Wolf. He sees all this from a beach of
many-colored pebbles.
Few casual visitors have more than a midday view of Two Medicine Lake,
for the stage returns in the afternoon. The glory of the sunset and the
wonder before sunrise are for the few who stay over at the chalet. The
lover of the exquisite cannot do better, for, though beyond lie scenes
surpassing this in the qualities which bring to the lips the shout of
joy, I am convinced that nothing elsewhere equals the Two Medicine
canvas in the perfection of delicacy. It is the Meissonier of Glacier.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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