The Book of the National ParksYard, Robert Sterling
History
The Book of the National Parks
Yard, Robert Sterling
National parks and reserves -- United States
Many one-day visitors take none of these stage and automobile trips,
contented to dream the hours away upon Yavapai or Hopi Points near by.
After all, it is just as well. A single viewpoint cannot be mastered in
one's first day, so what's the use of others? On the other hand, seeing
the same view from different viewpoints miles apart will enrich and
elaborate it. Besides, one should see many views in order to acquire
some conception, however small, of the intricacy and grandeur of the
canyon. Besides, these trips help to rest the eyes and mind. It is hard
indeed to advise the unlucky one-day visitor. It is as if a dyspeptic
should lead you to an elaborate banquet of a dozen courses, and say: "I
have permission to eat three bites. Please help me choose them."
Wherever he stands upon the rim the appalling silence hushes the voice
to whispers. No cathedral imposes stillness so complete. It is sacrilege
to speak, almost to move. And yet the Grand Canyon is a moving picture.
It changes every moment. Always shadows are disappearing here, appearing
there; shortening here, lengthening there. With every passing hour it
becomes a different thing. It is a sun-dial of monumental size.
In the early morning the light streams down the canyon from the east.
Certain promontories shoot miles into the picture, gleaming in vivid
color, backed by dark shadows. Certain palaces and temples stand in
magnificent relief. The inner gorge is brilliantly outlined in certain
places. As the day advances these prominences shift positions; some
fade; some disappear; still others spring into view.
As midday approaches the shadows fade; the promontories flatten; the
towering edifices move bodily backward and merge themselves in the
opposite rim. There is a period of several hours when the whole canyon
has become a solid wall; strata fail to match; eye and mind become
confused; comprehension is baffled by the tangle of disconnected bands
of color; the watcher is distressed by an oppressive sense of
helplessness.
It is when afternoon is well advanced that the magician sun begins his
most astonishing miracles in the canyon's depths. Out from the blazing
wall, one by one, step the mighty obelisks and palaces, defined by
ever-changing shadows. Unsuspected promontories emerge, undreamed-of
gulfs sink back in the perspective. The serpentine gorge appears here,
fades there, seems almost to move in the slow-changing shadows. I shall
not try even to suggest the soul-uplifting spectacle which culminates in
sunset.
Days may be spent upon the rim in many forms of pleasure; short camping
trips may be made to distant points.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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