The Book of the National ParksYard, Robert Sterling
History
The Book of the National Parks
Yard, Robert Sterling
National parks and reserves -- United States
Parker and Browne camped along the Muldrow Glacier, now a magnificent
central feature of the park. Then they made for McKinley summit.
Striking the Denali Glacier, they ascended it with a dog train to an
altitude of eleven thousand feet, where they made a base camp and went
on afoot, packing provisions and camp outfit on their backs. At one
place they ascended an incoming glacier over ice cascades, four thousand
feet high. From their last camp they cut steps in the ice for more than
three thousand feet of final ascent, and attained the top on July 1 in
the face of a blizzard. On the northeastern end of the level summit, and
only five minutes' walk from the little hillock which forms the supreme
summit, the blizzard completely blinded them. It was impossible to go
on, and to wait meant rapid death by freezing; with extreme difficulty
they returned to their camp. Two days later they made a second attempt,
but were again enveloped in an ice storm that rendered progress
impossible. Exhaustion of supplies forbade another try, and saved their
lives, for a few days later a violent earthquake shook McKinley to its
summit. Later on Mr. Browne identified this earthquake as concurrent
with the terrific explosive eruption which blew off the top of Mount
Katmai, on the south coast of Alaska.
The following spring the Stuck-Karstens party made the summit upon that
rarest of occasions with Mount McKinley, a perfect day. Archdeacon Stuck
describes the "actual summit" as "a little crater-like snow basin, sixty
or sixty-five feet long, and twenty to twenty-five feet wide, with a
hay-cock of snow at either end--the south one a little higher than the
north." Ignoring official and recognized nomenclature, and calling
McKinley and Foraker by their Kuskokwim Indian names, he writes of Mount
Foraker: "Denali's Wife does not appear at all save from the actual
summit of Denali, for she is completely hidden by his South Peak, until
the moment when his South Peak is surmounted. And never was nobler sight
displayed to man than that great isolated mountain spread out
completely, with all its spurs and ridges, its cliffs and its glaciers,
lofty and mighty, and yet far beneath us."
"Above us," he writes a few pages later, "the sky took on a blue so deep
that none of us had ever gazed upon a midday sky like it before. It was
deep, rich, lustrous, transparent blue, as dark as Prussian blue, but
intensely blue; a hue so strange, so increasingly impressive, that to
one at least it 'seemed like special news of God,' as a new poet sings.
We first noticed the darkening tint of the upper sky in the Grand Basin,
and it deepened as we rose. Tyndall observed and discussed this
phenomenon in the Alps, but it seems scarcely to have been mentioned
since."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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