The Book of the National ParksYard, Robert Sterling
History
The Book of the National Parks
Yard, Robert Sterling
National parks and reserves -- United States
The most interesting exhibit of the Katmai National Monument, however,
is a group of neighboring valleys just across the western divide, the
principal one of which Mr. Griggs, with picturesque inaccuracy, named
the "Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes"; for, from its floor and sides and
the floors and sides of smaller tributary valleys, superheated steam
issues in thousands of hissing columns. It is an appalling spectacle.
The temperatures of this steam are extremely high; Griggs reports one
instance of 432 degrees Centigrade, which would equal 948 degrees
Fahrenheit; in some vents he found a higher temperature at the surface
than a few feet down its throat. The very ground is hot.
This phenomenal valley is not to be fully explained offhand; as Griggs
says, there are many problems to work out. The steam vents appear to be
very recent. They did not exist when Spurr crossed the valley in 1898,
and Martin heard nothing of them when he was in the near neighborhood in
1903 and 1904. The same volcanic impulse which found its main relief in
the explosive eruption of near-by Katmai in 1912 no doubt cracked the
deep-lying rocks beneath this group of valleys, exposing superheated
rocks to subterranean waters which forthwith turned to steam and forced
these vents for escape. Griggs reports that volcanic gases mingle freely
with the steam.
The waters may have one or more of several sources; perhaps they come
from deep springs originating in surface snows and rains; perhaps they
seep in from the sea. Whatever their origin the region especially
interests us as a probably early stage of phenomena whose later stages
find conspicuous examples in several of our national parks. Some day,
with the cooling of the region, this may become the valley of ten
thousand hot springs.
But it is useful and within scientific probability to carry this
conception much further. The comparison between Katmai's steaming
valleys and the geyser basin of Yellowstone is especially instructive
because Yellowstone's basins doubtless once were what Katmai's steaming
valleys are now. The "Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes" may well be a
coming geyser-field of enormous size. The explanation is simple.
Bunsen's geyser theory, now generally accepted, presupposes a column of
water filling the geyser vent above a deep rocky superheated chamber, in
which entering water is being rapidly turned into steam. When this steam
becomes plentiful enough and sufficiently compressed to overcome the
weight of the water in the vent, it suddenly expands and hurls the water
out. That is what makes the geyser play.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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