The Book of the Pearl: The history, art, science, and industry of the queen of gemsKunz, George Frederick
History
The Book of the Pearl: The history, art, science, and industry of the queen of gems
Kunz, George Frederick
Pearls
The naturalist Pliny (23–79) stated: “In Brittaine it is certain that
some do grow; but they bee small, dim of colour, and nothing orient. For
Julius Cæsar (late Emperor of famous memorie) doth not dissimble, that
the cuirace or breastplate which he dedicated to Venus mother within her
temple was made of English pearles.”[185]
This decoration of pearls was a very proper offering to the goddess who
arose from the sea.
The historian Tacitus noted in “Vita Agricolæ” that the pearls from
Britain were dusky or brownish (_subfusca ac liventia_).[186] In his
commentaries on the Gospel of Matthew, Origen (185–253), one of the
Greek fathers of the church, described the British pearls as next in
value to the Indian. Their surface, he stated, was of a golden color,
but they were cloudy and less transparent than those from India.
We have no certain information whether the pearls secured by the Romans
were from the edible mussel (_Mytilus edulis_) of the sea-coast or from
the Unios of the fresh-water streams. Tacitus’s statement that they were
collected “as the sea throws them up,” seems to locate them on the
sea-coast; but conditions in modern times make it appear more probable
that they were from the fresh waters.
Some of the very early coins of the country indicate that pearls were
used to ornament the imperial diadem of the sovereigns of ancient
Britain. In “Historia ecclesiastica gentis Anglorum,” the celebrated
English monk, Bede (673–735) surnamed “The Venerable,” enumerated among
other things for which Britain was famous in his day, “many sorts of
shell-fish, among which are mussels, in which are often found excellent
pearls of all colours; red, purple, violet and green, but mostly
white.”[187] And Marbodus, Bishop of Rennes, in his lapidarium, written
about 1070, refers to the British pearls as equaling those of Persia and
India. About 1094 a present of an Irish pearl was made to Anselm,
Archbishop of Canterbury, by Gilbert, Bishop of Limerick.[188]
In the twelfth century there was a market for Scotch pearls in Europe,
but they were less valued than those from the Orient.[189] An ordinance
of John II, King of France, in August, 1355, which confirmed the old
statutes and privileges of goldsmiths and jewelers, expressly forbade
mounting Scotch and oriental pearls together in the same article, except
in ecclesiastical jewelry (Orfèvre ne peut mettre en œuvre d’or ne
argent parles d’Ecosse avec parles d’orient se ce n’est en grands
joyaulx d’église).[190]
Writing in the sixteenth century, the historian William Camden
(1551–1623) stated in his “Britannia”:
[Illustration:
OLD PRINT SHOWING FOUR METHODS OF CATCHING PEARL-BEARING MOLLUSKS
Reproduced from “Margaritologia, sive Dissertatio de Margaritis,” by
Malachias Geiger, Monachii, 1637
]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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