The Book of the Pearl: The history, art, science, and industry of the queen of gemsKunz, George Frederick
History
The Book of the Pearl: The history, art, science, and industry of the queen of gems
Kunz, George Frederick
Pearls
In the days when romance and chivalry held sway in Europe, pearls and
other favors were presented by ladies for the brave knights to wear at
tournaments. And we are told in the Arthurian legends how Elaine, “the
lily maid of Astolat,” gave to Sir Lancelot “a red sleeve of scarlet,
embroidered with great pearls,” for him to wear on his helmet: and “then
to her tower she climbed and took the shield, there kept it and so lived
in fantasy”; while he fought and won at the tilt, “wearing her scarlet
sleeve, tho’ carved and cut, and half the pearls away.”[346]
The sweet sentiment of purity associated with the pearl ennobles it
above all other gems. Rabanus Maurus, archbishop of Mainz, wrote, about
850, that “mystically, the pearl signifies the hope of the Kingdom of
Heaven, or charity and the sweetness of celestial life.”[347] True, it
was not among the twelve gems which adorned the breastplate of the high
priest of the Temple, symbolical of the twelve apostles. A Father of the
Church—St. Augustine, we believe—explains this by saying that it was
reserved for a more sacred office, that of representing Christ himself.
Pearl signifies purity, innocence, humility, and a retiring spirit. All
stones of the gray color of the pearl have the significances which are
given to this beautiful gem.[348]
Unlike other gems, the pearl comes to us perfect and beautiful, direct
from the hand of nature. Other precious stones receive careful treatment
from the lapidary, and owe much to his art. The pearl, however, owes
nothing to man. Perhaps this has much to do with the sentiments we
cherish for it. It touches us with the same sense of simplicity and
sweetness as the mountain daisy or the wild rose. It is absolutely a
gift of nature, on which man cannot improve. We turn from the brilliant,
dazzling ornament of diamonds or emeralds to a necklace of pearls with a
sense of relief, and the eye rests upon it with quiet, satisfied repose
and is delighted with its modest splendor, its soft gleam, borrowed from
its home in the depths of the sea. It seems truly to typify steady and
abiding affection, which needs no accessory or adornment to make it more
attractive. And there is a purity and sweetness about it which makes it
especially suitable for the maiden.
The idea of pearly purity is inseparably linked with the name Margaret,
derived from the Persian _Murwari_ (pearl, or child of light) through
the Greek μαργαρίτης. This name—beautiful in sound as well as in
origin—is popular in all European countries, and likewise are its
abbreviations and diminutives: in Italian, Margherita and Rita; in
French, Marguerite, Margot, and Groten; in German, Margarethe, Gretchen,
and Grethel; and in English, Margaret, Marjorie, Madge, Maggie, Peggy,
etc.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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