The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
History
The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
Footwear industry; Gutta-percha; Rubber; Tanning
The foregoing analysis is so simple and clear, that the attentive reader
will at once comprehend the natural as well as chemical differences
existing in gutta-percha and India-rubber, being not only chemically,
but mechanically and commercially different.
BOOK II.
CHAPTER I.
PREPARATION OF STOCK.
In the preparation of the leather for outer soles, after it has been
stripped up in the common form, remove all the loose flesh by skiving or
splitting, or any other process. The stock should be thoroughly dry.
Then raise a thick and even fibre on the flesh side, (_remembering
always, that the adhesive quality is in proportion to the thickness of
the fibre_) with a common card or rasp, or other convenient tool. The
cement should be applied hot, with a coarse paint brush, as evenly as
possible, then expose the leather to dry air a day or two, in order to
allow the solvent to evaporate. If the first coat is too thin, apply a
second in the same manner, until the leather is well coated. Then the
leather should be again exposed, as before, until completely dry. It may
then be wet in water, in the _usual_ form, until properly tempered or
prepared. The leather is then in a condition to be rolled, or hammered.
If hammered it should be _first_ cut up into soles. If rolled it may be
placed in a cutting machine, and cut up in the usual form. Sole leather
is cut to the best advantage by hands with the proper patterns, or
“dies.” After the soles are properly rounded to the desired pattern, for
all thin edged work the cement should be featheredged, from the edge of
the sole at a proper distance, in order to secure a good finish. This
process prevents the cement from adhering or sticking to the upper, when
the sole is pressed on.
MIDDLE SOLES, AND SPUR, OR SPRING LIFTS.
After they have been properly fitted, ready for use as in the common
form, the parts should be dried and a thick fibre raised, as before
described for the outer sole, only that a fibre should be raised on
_both sides_, as will be readily understood. Cement on _both_ sides.
This process may be done before cutting into soles or lifts, at the
option of the manufacturer.
TO PREPARE IN-SOLES.
Cut from thin leather skirting or shavings. After properly fitting to
the pattern or last, the edges of the in-sole should be reduced to a
proper thickness. A strong fibre should be raised on the side on which
the cement is to be applied, the stock being previously dry. Then cement
as before. One coat is sufficient if the cement is thick. If not, spread
again upon the edge, as that portion of the sole should receive the
thickest coating, for the purpose of holding, with great firmness the
linings or upper, when lasted, as the shoe may require.
TO PREPARE COUNTERS OR STIFFENINGS.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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