The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
History
The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
Footwear industry; Gutta-percha; Rubber; Tanning
After properly fitting and drying, cement on both sides of the _lower_
edges, corresponding to the cemented portion of the lining or “upper.”
PREPARATION OF STOCK FOR CLOTH SHOES.—PREPARATION OF THE UPPER STOCK.
First cement the linings on both sides entirely around, as far as they
are to be drawn over the edge of the last. Then cement inside of upper,
to correspond with the cemented portion of the linings. Place them in
position for drying, so that the cement shall not be brought in contact
with any _other part_ of the upper. In order to facilitate the cementing
process, the uppers or linings, may be so packed or placed, the one upon
the other, that large quantities may be cemented at the same time. This
should be done before binding.
TO PREPARE UPPERS MADE OF ANY DESCRIPTION OF LEATHER, OR PART LEATHER
AND CLOTH.
The linings, (if any are used), should be cemented as described for the
cloth shoe. The inside of the leather portion or parts of the upper
should be made as fibrous as possible. Then apply the cement as
described for linings. When fully dry they are ready for lasting.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR LASTING.
The process of lasting is simple and may be done with great despatch,
when all parts of the stock composing the shoe or boot are properly
prepared, according to instructions. Tack the in-sole on the last, place
it in the “Improved Heater,” or other drying apparatus, the heat being
about 160° Fahrenheit, in which place the counter or stiffening. Allow
it to remain in for two or three minutes, until the cement has softened
somewhat. At the same time place the upper inside, or on the top of the
“Heater.” Heat carefully, but slightly, until the cement becomes tacky.
Then tack the inner sole on the last, on which place the upper. Last
over the linings, put on the counter, press over evenly, then draw the
upper over neatly and smoothly to its proper position. Great care must
be observed in lasting over the lining or upper, to remove all
unevenness. On cloth uppers, all the superfluous stock around the heel
and toe, may be removed with scissors, on leather uppers with a knife in
the usual form. At the same time press, rub, or hammer each part that it
may be retained firmly and evenly in its proper position. If the uppers
are small, tacks may be used to hold each part in its place. In such
cases, do not remove the tacks until the cement is _cold_. If during the
operation of lasting, the cemented surfaces become too cool to stick
firmly, heat again over the “Heater.” Then hammer the parts lightly. The
lasting thus prepared, (if _wholly of cloth_) are now ready for the
cement. If the upper is part leather, the leather portion that is drawn
over the edge of the last, must have its grain or enamelled surface
removed as in Patent leather. This outer surface should be very
carefully removed with a rasp or knife. A rasp is preferred as it leaves
a desirable fibre.
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