The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
History
The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
Footwear industry; Gutta-percha; Rubber; Tanning
The grain thus removed should extend no farther than
the edge of the inner sole. The shoe is now ready for the cement.
CEMENTING PROCESS AFTER LASTING.
The cement should be spread on the inner sole, and the edges of the
upper that are lasted over, smoothly and evenly, to the edge of the
in-sole, and _no farther_. Place the shoe or boot to dry in such a
position as shall prevent the cement from running, or spreading over
other portions of the shoe. One coat of thick cement is usually
sufficient. But thick cloth of various descriptions, as Felting, Pilot
cloth, etc., will require a double coating. Also some kinds of leather,
as buckskin, it being very porous on its surface. All the fibres should
be fully saturated with the cement; the _solvent_ of the cement should
be _entirely dried out_, or evaporated, before putting on the outer
sole. If the solvent is not entirely removed the cementation soon
decomposes. The drying process is _all-important_.
DIRECTIONS FOR APPLYING THICK OR THIN SOLES TO SHOES AND BOOTS.
First it must be remembered, that all _heavy_ or _thick_ soles should be
_first_ wet in _warm water_, thus softening them, so that they can be
easily formed to the shoe. Then wipe dry from the _cemented surface_,
place them in the “Heater,” (or other suitable heating oven,) with the
other portions of the stock that are required in the construction of the
shoe or boot. Place the shoe upon the “Heater” allowing it to remain
only long enough to melt the cement; then if the shoe be a “spring
heel,” place it (the heel) upon the shoe. If for a _double sole_, place
the middle sole in its place, then the outer sole. Hammer and rub down
_firmly_, so as to _exclude all the air_. Keep them in this condition by
wetting slightly with _cold_ water, with a sponge, until they are firmly
united and _cold_. _Thin stock does not require wetting._ This being
done, the shoes are ready for the finisher. The finisher may wet the
soles by soaking them in cold water, providing the upper stock is not
injured thereby, as would be the case in bronzed or delicate stock. In
such cases let them be carefully wet with a sponge. They can then be
finished in the desired style.
[☞ By using due care, and following the directions as laid down, any
style of boot or shoe may be put together, from the coarsest brogan,
to the finest kid stock of any color, enamelled leather, in short,
all classes of stock without any damage to any portion thereof. Also
all kinds of cloth, from the coarsest Felting or Pilot cloth, to the
finest and most delicate satins. All may be made in a superior style
without the least defect.]
REMARKS ON FINISHING.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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