CHAPTER II. HINTS AND INSTRUCTIONS ON CUTTING PATTERN FOR BOOTS AND SHOES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. It is well known to all shoe manufacturers, that great difficulty and trouble is constantly arising for the lack of some _standard system of measurement_, which shall enable the workman who is dependent simply upon his own unaided labors for a livelihood, or the manufacturer who employs many “hands,” to _cut out their own patterns_. As it now is, there are “pattern cutters” to whom the workman must apply for his sizes and patterns, thereby subjecting him to expense and loss of time. In order that all obstacles of that nature may be obviated and a reliable system or plan of cutting patterns be introduced, we herewith submit a system for cutting diagrams, or patterns of boots and shoes. The plan is _simple_, _scientific_, _correct_. For those whose experience has been limited, this method will be a perfect key to the mysteries of pattern cutting. The great desideratum with all boot and shoe makers, is to construct a neat, comfortable, well-fitting boot or shoe, so that in all cases they shall fit the _foot_. This can only be done by having the last made to fit the foot properly, and the upper cut to fit the last. Boots and shoes are usually cut, and lasts are made, to suit the eye, the fancy, whims, or traditions of manufacturers, as they are the responsible parties, as from them all “orders” emanate. Ask the manufacturer why the lasts are made crooked on the bottom—why hollow the shanks equally on both sides—why make a hollow on the outside of the last affect a fulness on the foot—why make the inner ball _straight_, when in the _foot_ it is always _round_. No satisfactory answer can be given. Are these unnatural deformities required to make a well fitting boot or shoe? Why not make the last the _natural_ shape, and let the shank remain firm and solid? If the last is made in perfect conformity to the foot, all parts of the boot or shoe would then remain in their proper positions, natural and easy to the foot. So far as our observation extends, there is no established principle in constructing lasts, as there is no conformity as a general thing, to the shape of the foot. This fault does not attach to the last maker, but to those who order them. As a rule, we may say, all lasts should be made nearly straight on the bottom. The ball on both sides should be equally distant from a longitudinal line drawn from the centre of the toes to the centre of the heel.