The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
History
The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
Footwear industry; Gutta-percha; Rubber; Tanning
As the foot indicates, the inner shank should be formed by rounding it
from behind the large toe ball, and near it and forward to the heel
seat, and two-thirds across it, passing the centre of the last, leaving
the outside shank _full_ and _properly rounded_ to fit the foot. All
parts of the last should conform to the shape and thickness of the foot.
For ladies’ lasts, the spring of the toes and bottom of the last should
be so concave as to give perfect ease and rest to the foot when
standing, as seen in Fig. No. 1. No. 2. represents a last in common use;
the upward course from the centre of the heel to the back portion of the
heel, places it on an inclined plane, thus _always pressing the foot
forward_, and pinching the toes, until from continuous pressure, the
heel seat gives way and the stitches or pegs start at every step. For
ladies’ high-heeled boots, see Fig. No. 3. By the horizontal and
perpendicular line of the last, as represented, the foot is at rest. The
slight curve prevents the foot from pressing forward, at the same time
the elastic takes its proper position, thus allowing the boot to be
drawn on with ease, and to be worn with comfort.
No. 4. represents a boot once very much in use, and even at the present,
frequently seen. The wearer stands and walks, it will be observed, _upon
an inclined plane_.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.—_See page 81._]
[Illustration: FIG. 2.—_See page 81._]
[Illustration: FIG. 3.—_See page 81._]
[Illustration: FIG. 4.—_See page 81._]
Every step presses the foot forward, causing the shoe to slip up at the
heel, and always crowding the front portion of the foot and toes into a
most uncomfortable position. Thus causing great pressure on the upper
portion of the foot; if the foot is of a side-lace cut, the lacings are
strained, torn, or broken by the continued efforts of the foot to bring
the upper, and sole, to the _natural_ position of the foot. Shoes thus
cut, and made on such lasts are almost invariably bent in the shank in
order to conceal the ignorance of the manufacturer or designer. But the
foot is sure to betray the deformity of the last and the cut of the
uppers. Boots and shoes thus made are literally spoiled, unless the
wearer can keep the ankle _back_ to an angle of forty or forty-five
degrees, which is the position of the foot when thrown forward, while in
a sitting position.
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