The boy's book of trades and the tools used in themAnonymous
General
The boy's book of trades and the tools used in them
Anonymous
Industrial arts -- Juvenile literature; Vocational guidance -- Juvenile literature
Serge-stitching is done by passing the needle through the cloth from
the under to the upper piece, throwing the thread over the edges of the
cloth, so as to keep them closely together. It is also used to join
selvages together, as also to prevent taking up more space for seams than
can be spared, when the pieces are barely large enough for the required
purpose. It is not, however, much used by tailors, except when no great
degree of strength is required.
The cross-stitch is formed by two parallel rows of stitches, so placed as
that the stitch in the upper row is opposite to the vacant space in the
lower one, the thread passing from one stitch to the other in diagonal
lines. It is used for keeping open the seams of such garments as require
washing, and also for securing the edges from ravelling out in such
fabrics as are too loosely made to allow of their edges being fastened
down by the filling-stitch.
In the button-hole-stitch the needle is first put through the cloth from
the inner to the outer surface, and before it is drawn out the twist is
passed round the point of the needle, and kept in that position till the
needle be drawn out to the full length of the twist; this forms a kind of
loop, called by Tailors the “purl,” at the top or edge of the opening,
and when regularly made is both ornamental and useful. To increase the
strength of this stitch, and also to aid in making it true or exact, a
“bar” is formed on each side of the opening before the hole is begun to
be worked. This “bar,” as it is called, is made by passing the needle
from one end of the opening to the other (twice or three times), so that
there is a layer, if it may be so called, of twist stretching along
its whole length (and on each side) upon which the whole is worked,
the workman taking care to keep the “bar” as near to the edge of the
opening as possible, without allowing it to come over, in which case the
button-hole would be neither strong nor neat.
[Illustration: Trousers Pattern Book.]
The filling stitch is similar to that used in hemming; the chief
difference being in the direction given to the needle. In hemming, its
point is directed outwards, or _from_ the workman, but in filling it is
directed inwards, or towards him, and in each should be a little, but
only a little, slanted, in order to give the sewing a neat appearance.
This stitch is used for sewing on facings, and when made with neatness,
and without showing itself much on the outer side of the cloth, is
considered to be ornamental, as well as useful.
[Illustration: Whisk. Measure. Hard Brush. Reel. Iron Holder.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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