"This pass has two roads, which are traversable at different periods, according to the state of the snow; the one generally used is 12,488 feet above the sea, while the other is 12,656 feet. At irregular intervals along the route there are _casuchas_, or refuges, which were built by the old Spaniards for the protection of couriers and travellers who might be caught in snow-storms. Under the Spanish rule the casuchas were provided with benches or shelves on which one could sleep; there were doors that could be closed, and a supply of food and fuel was kept in each building. But since the countries became independent of the Old World the doors and shelves of these houses of refuge have been burned, and the supply of provisions is not maintained. The casuchas are dirty, and so open to the wind that unless the weather is absolutely terrible it is preferable to stay outside. The traveller must rely upon himself for provisions, and if he has not a sufficient supply, in case of a long detention in the mountains, he must either starve or eat his mules. "It had been stipulated with Federico that a supply of charcoal should be carried, as no fuel is obtainable on the highest parts of the mountains. Lower down there are trees and shrubs sufficient for cooking purposes, and there are patches of vegetation where the animals can graze, but in the upper elevations the beasts must go hungry, unless a few rations of grain are carried for them. Federico was thoughtful regarding his mules, and provided for them more liberally than do many of the arrieros. We had a good supply of blankets and other coverings for sleeping purposes; the weather was fine, and there was a good prospect that we should be in Santa Rosa on the fifth day from setting out on our mountain ride. "Among the people that gathered to witness our departure there were several afflicted with goitre, or swelling of the glands of the neck. I saw many cases of this disease in Mendoza, and at different points along the road; to all appearances it is identical with the goitre one sees in Switzerland, and its origin is as mysterious here as in the Old World. Federico said that nine tenths of the victims were women; he added that few of them objected to it, as it was 'excellent for displaying jewelry.' [Illustration: NEAR THE BASE OF THE ANDES.] "We rode out from the little village in as much 'style' as we could command, in spite of the restiveness of the mules, and their tendency to use their heels whenever an opportunity was afforded. Federico said they would get over it in a little while, but for the present we must put up with their eccentricities. Before starting we witnessed the performance of a young colt which had been taken in tow by the arriero of a party bound for Mendoza; it surpassed any of our mules in its kicking propensities, and I was satisfied that our beasts were by no means the worst behaved in the country.